Three Bay Lake State Parks

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By David Freeze

Three Bay Lake State Parks and a Black Water River

  Labor Day Monday, September 2 seemed like a perfect day to visit some more parks. I headed southeast to see Jones Lake State Park, the first of what is called bay lakes. Bay lakes are not deep, usually topping out at about 11 feet although walking in most of them well away from the shore probably won’t reach waist deep water. Also, the water is more tea colored, due to the acidity in the water.

   Jones Lake State Park is closest to Elizabethton and covers 2,208 acres. Salter Lake is also in the park but is undeveloped, even though it is the same size as Jones Lake. Because of the depth, only canoes, kayaks and small boats with 10 horsepower motors can use the lake.

    The visitor center has lots of information on how bay lakes developed and how they were purchased by the federal government before the Civilian Conservation Corps developed the parks with buildings, trails and pavilions. Jones Lake opened in 1939 as the first African American state park in North Carolina. A large pier juts out into the lake for fishing and a good section of sandy beach is roped off for swimming. Another pier is attached to the boat house.

    There are 20 camping sites, six of them good for RV’s with full hookups. The park also has three walking trails, all to do with the lakes. When I was there, the Cedar Loop Trail was closed for flooding, so I walked part of the Bay Trail out to the fishing pier.

   The area is rich in history since being settled in colonial times. Farming, including timber, turpentine and cotton, overused the land and the government then decided to purchase submarginal land for the parks.

     Less than 20 minutes away was Singletary Lake State Park. On the same day in 1939 that Jones Lake opened, Singletary Lake was leased to the state. Singletary Lake became a group camp for Boy Scouts and 4-H clubs which extends today to many church groups. Any verifiable group of 20 or more can rent the camps. There are two large camps with multiple buildings, with Camp Loblolly Bay built of logs in 1984 and accommodating 48 campers. Camp Ipecac, all red structures and built in the 1930s, is open year-round and houses 84 people. Visitors are only allowed in the park from 8am to 5pm. Canoes are provided for campers, but others can bring their own or other watercraft.

     Singletary Lake also has a beautiful 500 feet long wooden pier on the deepest of the local bay lakes. The lake isn’t fed by streams but relies on rainfall and runoff from the surrounding land along four miles of shoreline. Besides Jones Lake, Salters Lake and Singletary Lake, other bay lakes in the area include Lake Waccamaw and White Lake.

     Hiking trails are limited to the CCC Loop Trail that is easy and stays close to the lake. A short trail goes from the central area between the two group camps and on to the lake and pier. The two camps share a volleyball and basketball area, horseshoes and grilling. Fishing in the bay lakes is limited to only a few species, with yellow perch being the best suited to the acidic water.

     Next was Lake Waccamaw State Park with 2.398 acres and closest to the town of the same name. The state park began in 1976, and fronts on the eastern bank, a small part of the 9,000 acres of water and 14 miles of shoreline. At first glance, I thought of driving all the way around the lake and back but didn’t have an hour or more to spare.

     I did drive to the lake access point after finding no one in the visitor center, except a large stuffed bear. I expect they were short-staffed and closed for lunch. The very small Lake Singletary and Jones Lake Park offices were open. I found passport stamps and maps for pickup. The busiest and biggest park of the day, I didn’t see any rangers or maintenance staff either.

    Boating and fishing are popular, both interesting in their own way. There is no boat access inside the park, but the park does have an access point outside the park. The water, even though still acidic, must be less so because bass, bluegill and sunfish can be found here. The water has a red tea tint, but clear enough to see the bottom. Camping has only two options, one being five primitive group areas. The other is a 16×20 foot wide yurt tent. It is attached to a 16 by 32-foot wooden platform.

    There are four hiking trails, the longest being the 4-mile Lakeshore Trail. This would be a great trail to do at a later date, as it follows the lake from the visitor center all the way to the Waccamaw River and dam.

     The Lake Waccamaw Overlook was the best spot of the day for me. From a parking area at the end of the park road, there is a trail, then a boardwalk and then a pier out to benches and steps down into the water. Full grown adults in the water several hundred feet out were still only at waist deep. From this viewpoint, the lake is huge with lots of waterfront homes.

      28 state parks visited, and 14 more to go.  

Raleigh Area Parks

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By David Freeze

Raleigh Area Parks in One Day!

  I had three parks to visit on Wednesday, August 28th, and the Raleigh area had three close together. My first stop was at the Falls Lake State Recreational Area with 5,035 acres. The lake itself is 38,000 acres and has several access points at Beaverdam, B.W. Wells, Highway 50, Holly Point, Rolling View, Sandling and Shinleaf. Falls Lake is about 10 miles from Raleigh and 12 miles east of Durham. Prior to 1978, regular flooding caused extensive damage to public and private properties. The Falls Lake Project included the construction of a dam that was completed in 1981, thus harnessing the Neuse River for water supply, flood control and fish and wildlife conservation.

    Fishing, boating and swimming are the main activities, but the park has over 300 campsites. Tent, trailer and RV camping are first class with centrally located bathhouses. I saw the expansive sandy swim beach at Sandling, and two more are at Rolling View and Beaverdam. To enter the swimming and boating areas, a fee of $7 per person is charged, but only $5 for seniors. One lady said, “If you are over 62, it is only $5.” She deserved an extra $5 for saying that. The fee is charged daily from Memorial Day through Labor Day, with additional weekends in April, the rest of May and September. 

    A nice visitor center has exhibits on area wildlife and a separate map for each access point. Fishing and boating are allowed, but some of the access areas are limited to non-gasoline motors. Kayak, paddleboard and canoes are available for rent.

     William B. Umstead State Park in Wake County between Raleigh and Durham is also home for three man-made lakes. Big Lake is 55 acres, and Sycamore Lake and Reedy Creek Lake are about 25 acres each.  Fishing, kayaking, canoeing, and a boat launch are available. Umstead has 21 miles of hiking trails and 13 miles of multi-use trails that allow mountain bikes, horses, runners and hikers. I walked about half of the Sycamore Trail which follows the creek of the same name. Many of the trails here overlap and I found myself following the blue markers often to make sure I was on the right one.  

     The early park was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps and opened its doors in 1934, named for North Carolina’s 63rd governor known for his conservation efforts. The park itself is surrounded by busy highways, so this peaceful place seems shielded by massive trees from the city sprawl not far away. The land was bought and preserved as the cities crept closer. The park now totals 5,579 acres, part of it the former Reedy Creek Park, an African American park.

    Tent and trailer camping is available at 28 sites and there are 50 more sites within the park for primitive camping. Groups camps are also available for 60-120 people. The nine hiking trails, varying in distance up to 7.2 miles, are all well-kept and rated easy or moderate. Each state park in the passport book has a landmark item to be seen and not missed. I asked at the visitor center where I could find the Sycamore Bridge, an arched stone bridge over Sycamore Creek. The information desk person told me there were in fact two of them. I was happy to finally spot the CCC constructed one noted in the passport book.

       Authorized by the US Congress, the B.Everett Jordan Lake Dam was completed and filled in 1981, again for flood control, an adequate water supply and to promote conservation and recreation. Then Jordan Lake State Recreation Area near Apex on US 64 opened in 1982 and now has 12 different access sites. It is again an area dominated by water sports and the almost 14,000-acre lake. The Jordan Lake State Recreation Area itself encompasses 4,558 acres and has boating, group and tent camping, fishing, swimming and picnicking.

    The large visitor center has a wonderful exhibit area, much of it about the area’s history and the bald eagles that frequent the lake. I asked the receptionist where the best chance was to see an eagle in mid-afternoon. She said that the eagles normally feed morning and early evening but are often seen flying over the Seaforth Day Use area during the afternoon. I watched and didn’t see one, and still have only photographed one in all of my running and cycling travels.

     The Seaforth area had a beautiful beach and a wonderful trail, according to the attendant. I found the trail immediately and noticed that it was closed with a sign and caution tape. The reason given was the trail area was subject to flooding. I ducked under the tape and started on the trail and quickly noticed that the area had dirt and sand on the tops of all the knee-high undergrowth, noting the high-water mark of recent flooding. The flooding probably had something to do with the most aggressive mosquitoes I have yet discovered in a state park. The beach area was spectacular with dozens of shaded picnic tables under massive pines. The same $7 day use fee, $5 for seniors, is charged at Jordan Lake too.

    On a day dominated by beautiful lakes near big cities, I have now visited 25 state parks. 17 still to go!

Unusual Finds at State Parks

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By David Freeze

Unusual finds at more state parks!

     On Sunday, August 18, I headed east to get three parks about as close together as any group in the state. The first stop was at Raven Rock State Park, known for a large rock facing toward the Cape Fear River. Stretching for more than a mile and as high as 150 feet, the rocks were sculpted and carved out by water over millions of years. Ravens used to roost in the rocks, but no longer do. An Indian legend says that a Tuscarora Indian named Raven was captured by another tribe and confined to the high ledge, only able to survive because Indian maiden White Fawn supplied him with food. They were later allowed to marry.

    The park is located closest to Lillington and has 4,810 acres. The park was busy early on Sunday with lots of hikers, many of them on the same Raven Rock Loop Trail of 2.6 miles that I used. The Raven Rock site is more spectacular than I expected. Hiking trails in the park total 11 miles, most of it easy and moderate except for the long stair steps down to river level. Bridle trails total eight miles, and mountain bike trails add another 32.

    Interesting fish caught in park waters include oddities like longnose gar, American eel, chub, shiner, darter and pirate perch. There are backpack and paddle-in campsites, camper cabins and 15 campsites for tents and trailers, plus nine for RV’s. There is also a first-class motion activated exhibit hall and a Native American exhibit. This is a wonderful park with lots to see and do and was one of the busiest I had seen on any early morning.

     Carvers Creek State Park is one of the newest state parks, and currently it has little development. The park has 4.530 acres and is nearest Spring Lake. The entrance road is next door to Fort Liberty, formerly Fort Bragg, and the sound of large and small round firing was a constant while I was there. However, the signature item in the park is the Long Valley Farm which was the retreat of James S. Rockefeller. The 1,240-acre farm site includes a large millpond where fishing is allowed. The two trails in the park include an easy, flat walk to the farm from the park welcome center called the Rockefeller Loop Trail. The other trail is the Cypress Point Loop Trail, good for closer viewing of the large millpond which actually sits in front of the Rockefeller house.

     The house is fenced off pending future work, as is some of the property behind the house. A springhouse is on the property, as is another old house, a grist mill and a small shed. A sign says Long View Farm used scientific farming methods early on. The Rockefeller family purchased the farm in 1927, and the house was built in 1938. The 100-acre millpond was created around 1850. The livestock and crops supported many tenant farmers and their families. The farm was donated to the Nature Conservancy of North Carolina and then shown to all as part of Carvers Creek State Park when opened in 2013. Plans are in place to eventually make the house the park office and meeting center. The park plans to purchase additional land and to add camping and other recreational facilities.

      Weymouth Woods State Park and Sandhills Nature Reserve includes 915 acres and is nearest Southern Pines. The largest part of the park, once the Weymouth Estate, was donated to the park by the Boyd Family in 1963. The park’s main focus are stands of tall longleaf pines throughout the park. Many of these trees are 250 to 400 years old.

     The visitor center has lots of interesting activities planned for school and family groups. Throughout the three sections of the park are eight hiking trails totaling 4.7 miles and one equestrian trail of 2.6 miles. All walking trails are rated easy.

     Advertised in my guidebook and on the park map is the oldest living long leaf pine in the world. When I stopped at the visitor center, I asked about the tree and how to find it. The visitor center is in the Weymouth Woods Track of pines and walking trails. The desk attendant told me to just put the Boyd Tract in my GPS, and I did, finding Den Road as a dirt road with large homes and equestrian jumping farms. I parked in an open spot next to the Round Timber Trail. Very sandy and obviously frequented by ridden horses, I saw that the oldest tree would be on the left of the trail. I saw huge pines yet couldn’t find my tree. I turned and headed back downhill to look again.

    There was my tree! I had missed the famous tree on the way by, but this time noticed a small path had been worn to and around it. The huge tree was just as the attendant described, especially the odd-shaped base of it. The top has unusual, small and curved limbs and a strange butt that is misshapen. The tree has been tested to be 476 years old, and for many years remained in second place to a longleaf pine in Florida that reached 499 years before its death.

     Now with 22 state parks complete, I will soon head for 19 more.

Piedmont State Parks

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By David Freeze

Piedmont Region

   Back on the road, I had a wonderful visit to Morrow Mountain State Park on Monday, August 12th. Nearest to Badin, the park of 5,881 acres was established in 1939. At the opposite end of the parking lot from the visitor center, I found a wonderful heritage museum that contained plenty of facts about the area’s history and the park’s early years. With interactive displays, the museum is unmanned but still first rate.

     The park has plenty to see and do, including an Olympic size pool, 30 miles of hiking, biking and equestrian trails. An old quarry where Civilian Conservation Corps workers took argillite rock for the park’s buildings, walls and bridges can be seen on the Quarry Trail. My favorite trail was the Fall Mountain Trail. Moderate and 4.1 miles long, much of the trail is along a beautiful segment where the Yadkin River becomes the Pee Dee River and then Lake Tillery. The river is wide and reminds me of the great rivers I have cycled past. With plenty of hardwoods along the trail, this would be a phenomenal fall color hike.

     With 54 miles along 11 hiking trails and 33 miles of bridle trails, I was very impressed. The Mountain Loop Trail around the top of Morrow Mountain offers fantastic views of the river and the surrounding forest below. Also, most notable were the reconstructed Dr. Francis Kron house, office and greenhouse. Dr. Kron was the first formerly trained doctor in the piedmont and also supplied veterinary services while making his own medications. He bought his land in 1834, established his practice and then played a big part in establishing Stanly County where the park is located.

      My first visit very early on the morning of Wednesday, August 14th was the Eno River State Park. The river is the star of this 4.319-acre park. With plenty to see and I do, I kept hanging around for more on a morning when time was short for me. I stopped at the old visitor center first and found a map and immediately walked most of the 1.5-mile Buckwater Creek Trail that followed the river upstream. I met a local who told me what to see as he walks this same river trail every morning. While challenging over rock steps and stairs in a few areas, I enjoyed the river trail and a nice section of rapids past some big rocks. Just before leaving, I noticed a large group of kids loudly enjoying the water around the rocks and the rapids.

       I next found the new visitor center near Few’s Ford and talked to a very interesting attendant who gave me the park stamp and asked if I had seen the suspension bridge. I had not and immediately headed that way, then found the impressive piece of engineering. I watched a man walk across it fast and the thing was jumping up and down, but when I walked across it was steady and only slightly moving. Very cool!

      Another unusual find not far from the visitor center was a cabin built in the early 1800’s, yet a very well done and unusual “cabin” it is! Usually in this historic era, a cabin was very small and rustic. Located near the popular Few’s Ford crossing, the large Piper-Cox cabin is still going strong after 200 years.  Before bridges were common, travelers usually crossed rivers at places where the water level was low while the underlying surface was rocky to lessen the chances of getting wagons stuck.

    Water powered milling was popular along rivers during that era and 32 mills operated along the Eno. Several including grist, flour and sawmills operated at one time in the Few’s Ford area. Full of history, the park also has canoeing, kayaking and rafting along with fishing from its banks. Camping is only in back country sites and requires a permit. Other river access points within the park are Pleasant Green, Cabe Lands, Pump Station and Cole Mill. The park has an extensive and varied list of 18 hiking trails of lengths from .5 miles to 7.5 miles.

     My final visit this past Wednesday was the Occoneechee Mountain State Natural Area, but still on the list of 42 state parks. It is managed by the nearby Eno River State Park where I got the passport stamp. Rising more than 350 feet above the Eno River, the mountain summit is said to be the highest point between nearby Hillsborough and the Atlantic Ocean. The park is the smallest I’ve seen at 190 acres and is named after the Occoneechee Indians who lived on the Eno in the early 1600s. Many of their descendants remain in the area. The park does not have its own office but does have two metal boxes with trail maps and other information.

     The park has four hiking trails between .10 and 2.2 miles. All are rated moderate to easy, and most have something to do with the mountain summit. There are abundant flora and fauna, much of it usually found on higher mountains. Rhododendron and mountain laurel, as examples, are usually found at much higher altitudes, as are brown elfin butterflies. Two well-stocked fishing ponds are on-site.

    19 state parks done, 23 more to go.

Upcoming Races

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By David Freeze

   We have another Prediction Run on Saturday, August 24th at 8:30 am at City Park. Free to SRR members, prediction runs are open to anyone. Any non-members who pay the registration fee become members for a year. No watches, no phones and you’ll guess your total time prior to walking or running 3.1 miles. Closest to the predicted time wins and the top three get nice prizes. Everyone gets refreshments and plenty of fun.

     September has the new Hugh Bost Memorial 5K in Rockwell on the 7th, honoring the long-time police chief and raising money for Rowan County K9 programs. Next comes the Run for the Word 5K in Landis, now in its third year, on September 14th. Proceeds go for the South Rowan Bible Teachers Association since the state does not fund those teachers. New this year, Landis special police officers, Sheriff Andy and Deputy Barney have offered to make sure everything goes well in their favorite town. And the 21st brings the Town of Spencer’s Race to the River 5K. Formerly an afternoon event, the race moves to a 9am start that includes very fast miles 2 and 3 downhill to the river finish. 

     October has the new Back Creek Church Harvest Run 5K on October 5th. This is a totally rural course starting and finishing at the historic church in the western part of our county. Next up on the 12th is the Dolphin Dash at Sacred Heart Catholic Church. The race benefits the school and is our only cross-country 5K with the entire course on grass and dirt. Then we go into Halloween mode for the St. Matthews 5K on Saturday, October 26th. Another rural race benefits church members or area residents with significant health concerns and expenses. Sunday, the 27th, has the long-running Spooky Sprint 5K where all proceeds go to Rotary programs. New this year is a course that includes the Catawba College Shuford Stadium track, softball area and the Salisbury Greenway.

     Also, in the fall will be our regular races at Grace Lutheran Church with the Clean Water 5K on November 9th and the fast-growing Butterball 5K on the 28th. December has the Freeze Your Buns 5K on the 7th and SRR’s long running Santa Run for Hunger 5K on the 14th.

     All of these races have a fun run except the Butterball, and all are on Saturdays except the Thanksgiving Day Butterball and the Sunday Spooky Sprint.

     Our fall Beginning Runners Class will begin on Thursday, September 5th. As usual, 8 weeks of classes at the Salisbury PD building at Lee and Liberty. If all goes well, I hope to participate in the class as a returning runner following my back injury in May.

     I love these classes and it’s always fun to meet the new people who take them. These classes have been offered for more than 20 years and the Salisbury PD is a wonderful host. We start with a half mile distance on the first night and we’ll finish with running a 5K on the last evening. Eight weeks, all on Thursdays, beginning on September 5th at 6pm. Participants will learn about topics including shoes and equipment, stretching and strengthening, nutrition, injury prevention, safety and running form.

     Just a quick note about my back. I no longer have to wear the back brace, and I have less restrictions. My back is healing and if all goes well, I should be able to try running again in a couple of months. I have been cleared to ride a stationary bike but not a real one. Thanks for the incredible prayers and support!

     Remember the feeling you get from a good run is way better than the feeling you get when sitting around wishing you were running! I know this for sure.

Final Western State Parks

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By David Freeze

  After seeing a long-distance view of Mt. Mitchell in the clouds the night before, I was still hopeful of reaching the summit in time to see the July 24th sunrise. Still 16 miles away at my motel, I left on the dark and damp morning at just after 6am. I followed the Blue Ridge Parkway to the entrance road for Mt. Mitchell State Park and found most of it socked in by clouds.

    Mt. Mitchell was the first NC state park in 1915 and is one of the smallest at 1,855 acres. Named for Elisha Mitchell who explored the mountain and determined it the highest peak east of the Mississippi River at 6,684 feet. A railroad once operated on the mountain for logging purposes.

   Highway 128 is the entrance road, and I drove to the summit parking area while waiting for more daylight and a hopeful break in the clouds. I realized the area was enveloped in a cloud, so I walked the Balsam Nature Loop as suggested by the owner of Albert’s Lodge the evening before. What I found was sort of an enchanted alpine forest, well worth the effort. At the far end, I walked briefly for the first time on the Mountains to Sea Trail which crosses North Carolina.

    Back at the trailhead, I walked up the paved but steep Summit Trail to the observation area, I’m sure a real treat on a clear day. I was last here as a small child but couldn’t see more than 200 feet currently. A small museum and gift shop, plus restrooms are in the area too. The museum has a life-sized figure of area explorer Tom Wilson and his cabin.

   On the way back down, I stopped at the park restaurant that came highly recommended, but it didn’t open until 11am. Last was a stop at the visitor center for my passport stamp and a map, plus an interesting conversation with one of the attendants. I will return to see the views that offer parts of four states and are so spectacular maybe even Russia, according to Van at Albert’s Lodge with a smile.

    My next park was South Mountains State Park, listed as nearest Connelly Springs and the largest state park at over 20,000 acres. The park has elevations of 3,000 feet and has 47 miles of hiking trails, 35 miles of equestrian trails and 17 miles of bike trails. Opened in the 1970s, the park has primitive camping. The Cherokee Catawba Indians once hunted and fought in the park area and settlers came in the late 1700s. Gold was found in 1828, and 26,000 acres were logged before the state established the park.

   I asked at the visitor center about the most popular hiking trail in the park. The High Shoals Fall Trail is the signature trail and although the desk attendant suggested easier ones, I told her I wanted to see the falls. More than a mile to the falls, the second half was mostly wet rock steps. 400 of them this time, added to that a huge amount of people coming and going including what looked like kids’ day camps. I just stepped aside and gave everyone else plenty of room.

    The park has an extensive mix of 11 hiking trails varying in distance from .2 miles to 5.2 miles and with varying degrees of difficulty. Many of the trails can be combined for even longer efforts. All of the trails leave from one of the three trailheads.

     High Shoals Falls was one of the best I had seen on the state park trails, definitely again worth the effort. This was my 15th park and the most challenging waterfall trail yet. On the way back, I took another trail to Big Bear Falls with a much easier effort.

     My next park was Lake Norman State Park, the closest to my farm, on July 26. The park opened in 1962 after Duke Power built the Cowans Ford Dam and then donated land for the park to the state. Lake Norman was created from 1959 to 1964, but the area is full of long-ago history. The Catawba Indians had a population of about 5,000 but they left the area after it declined to less than 100 because of disease and warfare with any of the eight other tribes close by. There is an interesting collection of arrowheads that have been carbon dated to before 2000 BC.

    With 17 miles of shoreline on Lake Norman, the park has campgrounds, a public swim beach, hiking and biking trails, picnic areas and pavilions, a community building, a boat ramp, and a fishing pier on its 1,328 acres. There is quality fishing in Lake Norman and the park lake. Kayaks, canoes, pedal boats and standup paddleboards are available in one of the smallest yet one of the best parks. There is a 30.5-mile Itusu mountain bike trail. I did the Lakeshore Trail, which is listed as six miles on the park map but closer to 5.6 miles. Two other shorter trails including one that is wheelchair accessible start near the visitor center. The beach is free except for a small charge to swimmers but boats can launch free on Boat Launch Drive. Campground sites are numerous with a bathhouse and restrooms nearby, while six new two room cabins which can sleep six have water, sewer and electricity also available. Everything is free with lots to do!

     16 parks visited, and 26 more to go!

Mountain State Parks

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By David Freeze

Mountain State Parks!

   Visiting more mountain state parks on July 16th was an easy choice. With highs in the mid-90s here, I headed for the cooler hills. My first stop was Stone Mountain State Park, the first of three parks for the day that I had never visited. From my guidebook, I expected to see glimpses of the granite dome as soon as I entered the park, but I didn’t. Over four miles in circumference, it stands at 2,305 feet and is the centerpiece of the park.

    I stopped first at the park office for some tips on the best hiking, a map and my treasured passport stamp. The attendant looked at my back brace and suggested some easy hikes to see a waterfall and a short one to see the restored 1880s farm within the park. She told me about the prettiest falls in the park but cautioned me because of 300 steps down and back to see it from the base. The office had nice displays concerning the history and wildlife in the park. The park, opened in 1969, has 14,353 acres and tops out at 2,305 feet.

    I drove to the lower hiking area and walked a portion of the Stone Mountain Loop Trail to see the Hutchinson Homestead, a wonderfully restored house, barn and a handful of other outbuildings required for the self-sufficient farm family of the late 19th century. All the buildings are closed to the public, but I would love to return someday to see the insides. Signboards told of the history of each building and most of them included photos of the Hutchison family in the early years of the farm.

     Just behind the farm and slightly farther up the trail was my first sight of Stone Mountain, a genuine “wow moment”. I’ve seen spectacular scenery all across America and Canada and assure you the actual stone mountain ranks very highly, especially when viewed from the top of what I suspect was once a large hay field for the farm. Above all this on the top of the mountain is the highlight of the Mountain Loop Trail. Once my strength and balance recover more, I will do that one before 2024 is out.

    I did the .75-mile Connector Trail to stand atop the Stone Mountain Falls, the one with the 300 steps down and of course 300 back up. Probably better seen in the late fall and winter with less foliage, I still couldn’t stand not to do the 300 steps. Solid wood steps with a railing helped and I was able to make the descent but could only see about half of the 200 feet of the falls due to the lush foliage. I met a couple on the way back up who said, “We saw you with the back brace and knew if you could make it, we had to do it!” I had a blast, but my heart was pumping!

      I also walked the short distance to Widow’s Creek Falls, complete with plenty of standing water for a cool pool dip. My last stop in the park was the historic Garden Creek Baptist Church, established in 1897 and still holding services on Sunday.

     Grandfather Mountain State Park is one of the newest state parks, opened in 2009. The 2,456 acre park doesn’t have an office but has nice trail-end bathrooms, benches and a parking lot off Highway 105 South. Still in developmental stage, the park is mostly wilderness with hiking trails, backcountry camping sites and beautiful views of Grandfather Mountain. The Profile Trail, the centerpiece of the park, climbs from the parking lot 3.6 miles over 1600 feet in elevation increase to the crest of the mountain. I walked about .75 miles of the trail, all well done with good footing and new steps. Other trails are at the Boone Fork Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

     This is not the Grandfather Mountain home of the swinging bridge and other attractions. Operated by Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation and located close by, this park charges an admission fee.  

     Lake James State Park, established in 1987, has 3,743 acres and 150 miles of shoreline. Lake James was created by Duke Power in the early 1900s. The park office/visitor center is new and impressive. There is a 700 ft. swim beach area in the Paddy’s Creek Section of the park. I walked the Fonta Flora Trail, paved for a section down to the lake, that becomes a walking trail with the first of the many scenic views of the lake. Becoming packed dirt, it quickly crossed a steel bridge over a beautiful section of the lake, before more dirt trail.

     Lake James was my tenth park, but the first with a major emphasis on mountain biking. Nearly 20 miles of trail with rated areas for beginners, intermediate and experienced bikers are exceptional, and I was surprised to see all of this promoted in the visitor center. In my view, these trails along with many of the hiking trails would be a great place for running too. 

     The lake has excellent facilities for swimming, boating (paddleboards, canoes, kayaks too), picnicking and fishing in or on its 6,812 acres of beautiful water fed by the Linville and Catawba Rivers.

     Finally, a two-mile section of the Overmountain Victory Trail from the Revolutionary War along with at least nine other hiking trails, none rated strenuous, are available.

     I am way excited to continue this quest of the NC State Parks. 10 visited with 32 more to go!

More State Parks

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By David Freeze

More State Parks!

   My second day of visiting state parks was a last-minute decision, although I was prepared. I realized I had a free day on July 10th and headed north again right after my early morning walk. With local highs predicted around 95, I once again headed for the mountains.

    I started out with the 1800-acre Rendezvous Mountain State Park near Purlear, one of the oldest state parks and first established in 1926. The Civilian Conservation Corps built a road in, a cabin and some trails in the 1930s. The park was then transferred to the NC Forest Service, then transferred back to the state park system in 2022. The park’s name comes from the Revolutionary War period when the Overmountain Men patriots used Rendezvous Mountain as a meeting point before heading to the 1780 Battle of King’s Mountain. 

    Rangers were meeting in the park office when I visited. There is a Talking Tree’s Trail of .6 mile but none of them mentioned anything to me. Another short trail up the mountain found the 1936 Aeromotor Fire Tower loaded with various antennas for communication purposes. Although tower access is prohibited, it isn’t locked. The CCC cabin appears in great shape. I saw only two other visitors while there.

     The New River State Park Wagoner Access Area is near Laurel Springs and is part of 3,323 acres. New River is considered one of the five oldest rivers in the world and is unique in that it flows north. A 26.5-mile segment of the 320-mile river is part of the park system. I walked the Fern Nature Trail which loops through a natural area, the canoe access point along the river and one of the finest camping areas that I have seen in my travels. A huge bathhouse and shower facility is central to the campground. Three other trails in the park include the strenuous four-mile Riverbend Back Country Trail.

       Other access areas are located on US 221, another full amenity point, and at Elk Shoals, a smaller area where tubing and a beach area are the main focus. Three other areas don’t have road access and offer less amenities. They are located at Allegheny, Prathers Creek and Riverbend.

       The New River has a gentle current flow and is generally shallow, perfect for all abilities. Canoes, kayaks and tubes are available from local outfitters and fishing is good on the river. I have never considered canoe camping but left the area with that thought in mind. 

       Next was Mt. Jefferson State Park, also 3,323 acres, and named for President Thomas Jefferson in 1952. Jefferson’s father, Peter, owned and surveyed the land in the 1700s. Mt. Jefferson became a state park in 1956 after area citizens acquired the minimum acreage to qualify for that designation. The peak is 4,683 feet of black metamorphic rock. Legend holds that slaves traveling the Underground Railroad used the mountain hideaways.

     The entrance road has little to see until reaching the small park office and maintenance area. I found it unattended, as I was told to expect at New River State Park. I found a small map/brochure and the passport stamp that I required in a little birdhouse looking box on an outside wall. I saw only one worker in the park, yet it was beautiful and well-kept while focusing on overlooks and several hiking trails.

    The Sunrise and Sunset Overlooks are spectacular, especially the rock facing of the Sunset one. It was a great place for pictures for those who dared to step out on the rock overhang. The entrance road ends near the summit with a huge picnic area and a large pavilion shelter with fireplace. Restrooms are available there, and also at the park office.

      I chose to walk the .3-mile Summit Trail, labeled as strenuous although I called it disappointing. The trail was smooth gravel and did reach the summit and another communication tower, though all views were more or less blocked by trees and bushes. Other trails from the summit include the 1.1 mile Rhododendron Trail and the .75-mile Lost Province Trail. Notably, at the summit, I experienced a midafternoon temperature of 73 degrees. The park is considered a wilderness natural area.

     My final park visit for the day was the 4,423-acre Elk Knob State Park, at the end of the some of the most winding mountain roads I’ve seen. Constant switchbacks going up through beautiful mountain country ended on Meat Camp Road at the entrance into one of the newer state parks. First established in 2003, the park’s name comes from the elk that once wandered the area in the 1700s. Meat Camp Road gets its name from the local area that was home to a meat packing house used by hunters before the Revolutionary War.

     Hiking is the main attraction at the park and a nearly full trail parking area suggested that Wednesday was a busy day on those trails. The half-mile Maple Tree Run trail was the one I hiked and read that it is used in winter for snowshoe and cross-country skiing, though never wide enough for two skiers to pass easily. The 1.9-mile Summit Trail accesses the two Elk Knob overlooks. Elk Knob tops out at 5,520 feet, aiding the cool 67 degree temperature I enjoyed. A backcountry group camp and primitive camping sites can be found on the 3.8-mile Backcountry Trail.

     Seven parks visited and 35 to go, because the correct total of state parks is now 42 after Rendezvous was added back in.

State Parks

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By David Freeze

State Park Visits Begin!

    I’m excited to visit all the North Carolina State Parks, especially since I will miss the opportunity to go on another summertime cycling adventure. Bicycle riding will have to wait but there is plenty of energy remaining to get the party started. My back injury continues to heal, and walking is improving daily.

    Ken Beaver, a long-time friend, retired recently from the NC Prison system and his first adventure was to visit the state parks. He has shared pointers and information, so the journey begins.

    Last Sunday, July 7th, I drove first to Mayo State Park not far from Mayodan. After a 90-minute drive north, I found a very small quiet park with an unattended weekend office. There are two ponds in the actual park, but the river is not accessible here. This section of the park has large lawns, a large pavilion and several short trails. Fishing and swimming are allowed in the main pond. This is a perfect park for a very quiet nature getaway.

     The park was established in 2003 and encompasses 2,778 acres. The park is named after civil engineer Major William Mayo who helped survey boundary lines between Virginia and NC in the early 1700s and helped to map the region for the first time.

    Mayo River is accessible at five access points, the first being the Deshazo Mill Access where I walked to the Fall Creek Waterfall. Few amenities are provided at river access points.

     Next, I drove to Hanging Rock State Park, an area purchased by the state in 1935, and most of it constructed from 1935 to 1942 by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The park has 9,011 acres and is close to Danbury, which just happens to be one of the smallest, most interesting and historic county seats in NC. There is a new visitor center with an active information desk, where I met a wonderful attendant who told me about the must-see places in the park. I was wearing my back brace, and she immediately began to tell me about the easier trails, and the one can’t miss part of the park, The Lower Cascade Falls.

     There are currently 41 state parks and all of them have pages in a little passport booklet. The goal for those visiting all the parks is to get the specific park page stamped and signed while in the park. At the Mayo River Park, the park office was not open, but the page stamp was located beside the door. At Hanging Rock, I picked up the passport booklet and got it stamped. I will glue in the stamp from Mayo.

     Back to Hanging Rock Park, I think this was my first visit and was extremely pleased with the facilities and sights to see. There are 18 walking trails and nine bike trails. I did the Upper Cascades Falls and the Lower Cascades Falls Trails, along with much of the Lake Trail. I also got a good view of Hanging Rock.

     A huge 12-acre lake was busy with swimmers in a lifeguard area. A fishing pier is popular as are the benches around the shaded banks of the lake along the trail. Boats are available, as are concessions in an area that includes both a historic bathhouse and boathouse.

     I stopped to see Lower Cascade Falls and almost met my match with long rock steps down to the falls and pool area. This was a test for my recovering balance and leg strength. The rock steps were placed about 80 years ago by the CCC and to me are an engineering marvel.

     Hanging Rock State Park has so much to see and do, I could have easily spent a camping weekend there. It has the feel of a very good national park.

      My final stop for the day was Pilot Mountain State Park, the rock dome familiar to many driving north of Winston Salem on US 52. It is considered an isolated mountain and like Hanging Rock is part of the Sauratown Mountain Range, named after the Saura Indians. Pilot Mountain rises 1,400 feet above the valley floor and 2,431 feet in total elevation. The rugged mountain rock, quartzite monadnock, has survived for 500 million years while surrounding peaks were eroded by the elements. Tent and trailer camping are available, along with 11 trails ranging from a tenth to 6.6 miles. The views from the top encompass hundreds of square miles including the Blue Ridge Mountains to the west. Total acreage is 3,782 and the park is located nearest to Pinnacle, NC.  

     Pilot Mountain became the state’s 14th park in 1968 and was dedicated as a National Landmark in 1976. The mountain was used as a landmark for the Great Wagon Road from Philadelphia to Salisbury.

     Additional sections of the park are located about a 15-minute drive to the south. One centers on the Yadkin River and the Bean Shoals Canal, and the other is the Horne Creek Living Historical Farm, depicting farm life in the early 1900s. I found the farm closed on Sundays and Mondays, so I will return at a later date to visit these locations.

     Three state parks visited, 38 to go!

Hot Weather Runs

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By David Freeze

Making the most of your hot weather run or walk!

  Two of my own favorite running stories and my best biking story involve extreme weather. I haven’t been afraid of extreme weather on the run but sometimes determination can override common sense. I worked for a winter, December through mid-March, in Green Bay, Wisconsin. I had no idea about real cold until we walked off the plane not properly dressed for a 20 below zero wind chill factor on a December morning.

    I had packed my running clothes, not enough of them, but desperately wanted to keep up my running while there. A new company friend was a runner too and helped me with proper gear. Good thing he did, because I survived a 5 mile run in 40 below wind chill. Locals said, “Don’t even try it, your skin will freeze!” It didn’t but thankfully I was much faster then and was only outside for about 35 minutes.

   We’ll not see that kind of cold here, but the heat has been the source of much running discussion the last week and more is ahead. I don’t care for the hot and humid days either, but any day with a run (and now with a walk) is better than the alternative. Here are a few tips worth sharing on keeping your daily run or walk going. Most runners and walkers head out with a goal pace or distance in mind and are willing to compromise on one or the other. On a hot and humid run, it’s better to be willing to compromise on both.

    I’m a morning runner or walker and I try to get the best temperature of the day for summertime exercise. But the trade off is that early morning exercise has potentially the highest humidity in the summer. High humidity, a nearly everyday companion in the summer south, can be a real anchor. Hot humid air feels thicker due to the amount of moisture in the air. Your body then must work harder to breathe. This makes you feel short of oxygen, which not only increases heart rate further but makes your effort feel harder. Sometimes I tell others that I just had “nothing” on my run. If this is the case, try switching to run/walk intervals or slowing down to allow your body to take in more oxygen. Particularly if the humidity is so high the sweat just won’t evaporate off your arms. Dial it back and you’ll still get a good workout.

    Your workout is likely doomed in these conditions if you haven’t hydrated. The worst and hardest workouts of the year can come on a warm and humid day especially if your hydration goals aren’t met. I find best results with emphasis on building hydration late in the evening and through the night. Some people say, “I don’t want to get up late at night to pee.” A serious runner or walker would be OK with getting up a couple of times, drinking enough so his or her pee is clear, the only proof that hydration has been achieved.

   I have often lost 3-5 pounds on a long summer run and every bit of it is sweat loss. One thing I tell my beginning runners classes about hydration, “Without proper hydration, your workouts will be much harder.” Simple water and summertime fruit will achieve proper hydration for most runners and walkers. Keep drinking!
     Whether you run early morning or not, don’t stop because its hot. Find shade if you must run during the day. Don’t be afraid to get up at 4am to run in the dark, usually the coolest times. Wear light dri-fit clothing and socks, never cotton which will collect your sweat. Use a treadmill if you must, but don’t stop running.

    Rowan’s next 5K is the Run for the Greenway 5K and Fun Run at the former Knox Middle School site. We just changed the course for a downhill start and a flat finish. I hope to see you there, runners and walkers all.

   Look for this 5K and other events at www.salisburyrunners.org.

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