By David Freeze
Tough cycling along Lake Superior
I was at the Allyndale Motel in Duluth overnight and enjoyed it. The motel was built in 1952, but everything worked well except the WiFi. Both AT&T and Verizon had poor connection in the city of Duluth. The owner of the motel told me he had that problem long term. I asked the girl at the desk how to get from the motel through town this morning and she nailed it. Duluth is big but very hilly, except down closest to the water. Grand Avenue and Superior Street took me all the way to US 61, and I headed north along the shore.
Some rain was forecast and a headwind, but we didn’t get any rain yet. US 61 went through a residential area of beautiful homes overlooking the lake, the largest body of water in the world. On the north edge of town, I stopped at a visitor information place and got help as I am trying to develop of plan. The attendant told me to take the scenic trail along the water, but it isn’t continuous and it has people walking on it. I stuck to the road and generally had plenty of room until later in the day.
The only real town in the morning was Two Harbors, with plenty of stores and lots of traffic. I stopped to see the Two Harbors Lighthouse, a beautiful structure with the first beacon lit in 1892. Shipping was busy then in the area and still is. An iron ore carrier left while I was there.
On the way up the shore toward Two Harbors, I met Mary Bridget Lawson. She pedaled up beside me and easily was able to jump ahead. We rode and talked, then she got out of the way of traffic. Turns out Mary was riding her electric bike. She had prearranged for her sister to pick her up. We were riding along the Grandma’s Marathon course too, with many distance markings along the road. I really enjoyed the conversation with Mary and her sister.
We had two tunnels to use today and I bypassed one and did a road around it because I met three college students who were cycling together towards Silver Bay. Haydn Suski-funk, Iain Alexander and Atticus Coates all attend Middlebury College in Vermont together. They were trying their hand at rock climbing when I left them. I rode through the second tunnel and all was good.
Past Two Harbors, traffic got heavier and the road got way hilly. There were no other towns until I got to Beaver Bay, which was small but had a good Holiday convenience store. I should have stopped to get my evening food.
Just three miles away was Silver Bay, where I am staying tonight in the Mariner Motel. The Mariner is an old school motel, with no air conditioning in the rooms, but the rooms are great and well-kept. I have my fan going and the windows open, and it is getting cooler quickly. What’s different about a motel like this is that people sit outside their rooms and talk, something you don’t see otherwise. I may be back to the Mariner in a few days as plans come together.
When I asked about food, the motel desk operator told me the only food in town was a convenience store and a pizza place, up a steep hill to the very small Silver Bay. I loaded up at the convenience store, then watched the pizza place close for the evening, before coasting back down the hill.
Tomorrow, I am riding to Grand Marais, the biggest town left until well after the Canadian border. I have a cabin reserved.
Past that, the only thing for sure is that I’m not going to Thunder Bay in Canada. Too many knowledgeable opinions helped me rule it out. What I hope to do is several attractions near the border and I will know more about them when I get to Grand Marais and will share as soon as I know.
The riding is very challenging. No continuous flat spots so far. But the scenery is good and some things I will visit on the way back down the coast. I had 65 miles today, more than I expected to get when I left Duluth. I hope to see you back here tomorrow!
