David Freeze

By David Freeze

I drove west on May 17 with a mission to visit the last 11 counties in that farthest part of the state. Many of the towns I was already familiar with, having attended Western Carolina University for two years. My first stop was Burnsville, a town that I hadn’t seen before. Burnsville was founded in 1834 and named after War of 1812 naval hero Otway Burns. Serving as the county seat of Yancey County, Burnsville is the only incorporated town in the county.

The town square is a park, not centered on the courthouse, and has a statue of Burns. The Yancey County courthouse, built in 1908, is just across the street, not far from the very interesting Nu-Wray Hotel. Originally built of logs in 1833, the hotel is undergoing complete renovation. Elvis Presley, Thomas Wolfe and William Sidney Porter (O.Henry) all spent the night here. Concept photos of what the main areas and rooms with baths will look like were posted outside. The John Wesley McElroy house was built in the 1840s and later served as a hospital, post office and as headquarters for the Civil War home guard. General McElroy was the head of the western home guard brigade.

The NC Bigfoot Conference will be held here on June 17 and will include a day of notable speakers. The Yancey County Museum, beside the McElroy house, is free. Burnsville was interesting, fairly busy and the downtown was without a nationally known store, a pattern that would continue for the next two days.

Next up was Marshall, county seat of Madison County. The French Broad River runs through the town as does the railway and Main Street. The historic downtown is centered on the Madison County Courthouse, built in 1907. A long main street runs as flat as the river beside it, very pleasant on my legs. An interesting smattering of historic buildings and downtown stores included an old hardware and the depot, used weekly as a gathering place for mountain music on Friday nights.

Interesting about the downtown were repeated mentions of mermaids and the upcoming Mermaid and Parade Festival on June 3, an all-day event. Lots of apartments on the backside of the historic buildings faced the river. A central theme concerning the Civil War for many of the mountain communities was a disagreement over which side to support. While most who went to war supported the confederacy, some supported the union and a significant number were neutral, saying that the slave issue was not relevant in mountain counties. The mountains also became a haven for deserters from both sides.

The one big city I had on my schedule that day was Asheville, county seat of Buncombe County. I followed Siri’s directions to an end right in front of the courthouse. An empty parking spot was impossible to find until I spotted one with a red sign in front of it, and no instructions. I decided to take a chance, but still kept an eye on my truck occasionally since “towing” signs were posted everywhere.

Originally established as Morristown, the county seat was established in 1793 and then renamed Asheville after Gov. Samuel Ashe in 1797. On prior visits for running races, I had occasionally heard mountain music at the Shindig on the Green. Often impromptu, groups of musicians would form and play in various parts of the greenspace in front of the courthouse. A permanent covered stage now is in place where musicians and dancers are known to gather “along about sundown” on summer Saturday evenings.

Notable buildings include the city hall finished in 1928, the county courthouse and the Thomas Wolfe house. Wolfe’s book, Look Homeward Angel, is considered a classic and his boyhood home is a national historic landmark. In the same area is Central Square, contributing to what is called the Pack Square Park, right in the middle of the business district. Most interesting to me was a historical plaque commemorating the Aug. 14, 1943 day that Army Colonel Robert Morgan, Asheville native, flew the WWII Memphis Belle B-17 across central square. He then tilted the plane at 60 degrees to fly between the massive city hall and county courthouse. The Memphis Belle was the first plane to make the required 25 missions over German occupied Europe. The plane and crew were immortalized in a movie of the same name.

I continued west about 30 miles to Waynesville, county seat of Haywood County. Waynesville was founded in 1810 and named after Revolutionary War General “Mad” Anthony Wayne. Notable Civil War history was that the last battle in North Carolina ended here in a Confederate victory after a combined band of 600 Cherokee and southern soldiers danced around their campfires all night making a lot of noise. The Union commander prepared a surrender proposal which was delivered the next morning. Shortly after, both commanders were notified that the war had ended with the surrenders of Lee and Johnston in the previous days.

Driving into town, I couldn’t find an empty parking place until almost through town. Another busy and interesting downtown was also mostly flat and dominated by craft and antique shops, plus numerous food options. Historic buildings in the downtown area included the 1932 Haywood County courthouse, the 1927 Masonic Hall and the Dr. J Howell Way house, started before the Civil War and completed in 1899.

Forty-three counties done. I totaled 6.08 miles on my feet on a beautiful day and was excited to continue west. You’ll hear about more of those towns next week. See you then!

By David Freeze

This running story is one of the best, and I’m taking a break from the county seat visits to include it. Brayden Self, a regular runner through high school at East Rowan, texted me a little over five weeks ago that he and Preston Whicker were committed to running a marathon. That’s 26.2 miles, and they wanted to do it with just a month’s training. Brayden hadn’t run much since early in his freshman year when he did club cross country. Preston’s last running was as a high school senior year in track. At least two years of very little running for both of them.

Running a marathon is a huge challenge, even on the normal 12-16 week training cycle. The marathon is usually taken on by people who are already running regularly, but Self and Whicker had youth on their side. And the right kind of attitude.

With just a month of training time left, here is what Whicker did to get the challenge rolling. He said, “One day I was sitting around realizing my life was too comfortable. So, I decided to take on the challenge of running a marathon with 30 days of training and asked Brayden to do it with me.”

Self said, “I was working out one day and Preston randomly texted me, ‘Hey let’s run a marathon in a month.’ We both thought it would be a good challenge mentally and physically. It’s always good to challenge yourself and set difficult goals you will push yourself to attain. And if you do not reach your goals the first time, getting there afterwards shows your motivation to do so.”

Both guys set out to up their distance running but had to be careful to mix in recovery time too. Both also had knee issues and had to take a few extra days off. Overall, both ran 3-4 days a week and emphasized building up their long runs, topping out at 18 miles. Their marathon of choice was the New River Marathon on Saturday, May 13, just down the road from Boone at Todd. The course had two challenging long hills but most of it was flat along the scenic river. The website lists 20.8 miles of the course as flat, most of it on Railroad Grade Road in the New River Valley and surrounded by Christmas tree and horse farms.

Self had to drop out with an injury just past 15 miles, but Whicker completed the course in 4 hours, 44 minutes and 30 seconds.

Whicker said, “I felt good, the course was beautiful, running 20 of the 26 miles along the river. There was a one mile-long hill around the 11-mile mark which wasn’t that difficult going up but was worse going down, for me. I will definitely run more marathons but the next race I will be training for will be a 50-mile ultra marathon. I am going to keep on running, stay focused on the ultra-marathon and not get distracted.”

It isn’t over for Self either. He added, “A marathon is very taxing on your body, and I am still recovering at the moment. My favorite memory from the course was the start, I’ve never seen that many people on a start line besides at a regional xc meet in high school. My plan now is to train for 3-4 months and run another marathon as soon as possible and hopefully break 4 hours and 30 minutes.” He did the marathon attempt with a herniated disk.

Self just completed his junior year and is majoring in exercise science. Whicker just completed his sophomore year and is majoring in banking and finance. Both are at Appalachian State University.

Racing locally has the Ed Dupree 5K on Saturday, May 20, and then the nighttime China Grove Challenge 5K on Friday, June 2.

Look for these and more at www.salisburyrowanrunners.org.

By David Freeze

It has been an early goal to tally most of the counties that I could visit on a same day trip. Very few of those remain, but I did get three more on the weekend of May 6-7.

My first visit was Statesville, one that I knew would be enjoyable. The legislature decided to divide Rowan County in 1788 and Statesville was established as the county seat of Iredell in 1789. Iredell was named for James Iredell, a justice in the first Supreme Court. Statesville was a North Carolina leader in production of tobacco and tobacco products, plus blended whiskey.

The old Iredell County courthouse in Statesville was built in 1899 and is undergoing a major outside renovation with scaffolding all around. An earlier courthouse and post office, later used as city hall was across the street, having been built in 1891. One other building has always been my favorite in Statesville, the Mitchell College main building, built from 1854-1856. Other beautiful buildings highlight the campus which sits at the top of the highest hill in Statesville.

While there, I noticed carriage rides were being given in town and found them originating at the Colonel Silas Sharpe Alexander house, built between 1860 and 1865. A large sit-down party was being held in the backyard, with everything decorated to celebrate the coronation of King Charles. The front of the house, one of the oldest in town, was decorated too. Sharpe was sworn in as the first mayor of Statesville in 1867.

Historic Broad and Center streets were busy on a Saturday afternoon. A charity motorcycle ride was being hosted in downtown with live music ongoing for the riders who appeared to be mostly combat veterans. Along with the usual restaurants and bars in the area were a lot of outdoor provision suppliers. I stopped in at Andrea’s Ice Cream and Sweet Shop to see what was available. Andrea had been in town for nine of the business’s 10 years. She told me that business was good, partly crediting the downtown social district, and that they were about to get busy from 5 till closing at 9 p.m. I got wonderful pumpkin ice cream and a tasty store-made bagel.

Speaking of bagels, I next headed to Charlotte, Mecklenburg’s county seat. Employed here for 12 years, I didn’t spend much time downtown and dreaded the heavy traffic. On Sunday, May 7, I followed Siri’s directions that always leave me close to the county courthouse. This time, I was deposited in the middle of the government area, with the old and new courthouses nearby.

Charlotte is the 16th most populated U.S. city and third fastest growing city, and the second largest banking and financial center. It is also considered the center of the nation’s motorsports industry and that of professional wrestling. Mecklenburg County evolved from changes made to five other counties as the population headed west. Incorporated in 1768, the city was first called Charlottesburgh and Charlottetown on some maps. The Great Wagon Road became Tryon Street as it passed through Charlotte.

Many veins of gold were found in the area and Mecklenburg was the nation’s top producer in the early 1800s, leading to the construction of the Charlotte Mint. Other sources of income revolved around the railroad and cotton production. Charlotte has been the most populous N.C. city since 1930. The state’s largest running event, the Turkey Trot 5K and 8K, happens on Thanksgiving Day.

Among the many famous Charlotteans are Dwayne “the Rock” Johnson, early cowboy actor Randolph Scott and performer and songwriter Maurice Williams of the Zodiacs, famous for “Stay.”

I ran and walked around the relatively quiet downtown area, still in awe of the skyscrapers and many new condo and apartment buildings under construction in the area. I saw the Spectrum Center and the NASCAR Hall of Fame, then visited Einstein Bagels before leaving town. At least 20 people were waiting up to 20 minutes for their orders, but the cashier grabbed mine on the spot.

A quick 30-minute ride on Freedom Drive and I-85 took me to Gastonia, county seat of Gaston County. Gastonia was incorporated in 1877, the year that Civil War reconstruction ended. The crossing of two railroads and the beginning of the city’s textile industry brought opportunities for employment and social life. The initial population of the town was approximately 200 people, all located within one square mile.

I found the 1901 Gaston County Courthouse right away, now home to many government and community entities. Two other areas stood out as I toured the town. The Gastonia Honey Hunters baseball park, very much state of the art, seems a center of the downtown social life. The 1901 Loray Textile Mill building has been renovated and hosts multiple businesses and lofts.

Additionally, the 1922 Gastonia High School has been renovated with 74 upscale apartment homes. On the national register of historic places, the school opened with a pipe organ and indoor swimming pool. The original early 1920s Gaston Hospital has also been repurposed as 75 apartments.

A fun and artsy downtown is interesting and had live music early on a Sunday afternoon, even with a baseball game being played nearby. Gastonia is another town worth visiting.

I’m now at 37 county seats visited, while 63 remain. I had 4.71 miles running/walking in the three visits. I can’t wait to see more of our state!

By David Freeze

With a tight schedule this week, I was amazed to find four North Carolina county seats within 69 miles on the same road. U.S. 74 was my “road of the day” for Tuesday, May 2.

My first stop was Wadesboro, founded in 1783 as New Town and then changed to Wadesboro in 1787 to honor native son and Revolutionary War commander Colonel Thomas Wade of the local regiment. It’s the county seat of Anson County.

A settlement had grown along the banks of the Pee Dee River, but a more centralized location was needed for the county seat. The new site was found, and 70 acres of land were purchased by Patrick Boggan. Streets were laid out and named for Revolutionary War notables including Generals George Washington, Nathaniel Greene, Daniel Morgan and Griffith Rutherford; Colonels Thomas Wade and William Washington; and Governors Richard Caswell and Alexander Martin.

The most famous event in town history was the 1900 total solar eclipse. Scientists, astronomers and journalists came from around the world to view the event in what they deemed the best location possible. The eclipse lasted about 90 seconds according to one newspaper account. Blind Boy Fuller, a blues guitarist and singer, has his own mural. Father and son, Hoyt Patrick Taylor and Taylor Jr., both served as North Carolina Lieutenant Governors.

Wadesboro has steady heavy truck traffic through downtown, past dozens of historic homes and buildings. The downtown and historic courthouse sits on a knoll looking down to U.S. 74. Prominent and historic buildings in the downtown were Parson’s Drugs, in place since 1875, and H.W. Little and Co. hardware, open since 1894.

My next stop was Rockingham, the county seat of Richmond County. I found a town undergoing a 10-year revitalization plan that has new businesses opening. The first flat town in a while was good for my legs. U.S. 1, the highway that I followed by bike from Maine to Key West in 2014, goes right through one of the prettiest historic districts I’ve seen. A 173-year-old Lebanon cedar tree has its place on the National Register of Big Trees.

The town of Rockingham, founded in 1784, was named for the Marquis of Rockingham, Charles Watson Wentonworth, a strong friend of the Colonies, who was British Prime Minister in 1765. Richmond Community College has a new three-story location across from the old 1923 courthouse. Several stores and bank buildings built just after 1900 highlight the downtown near a fountain on the square which lights up in different colors at night.

I continued east on 74 to Laurinburg, the flattest town yet and the seat of Scotland County. Though not incorporated until 1877, Laurinburg by 1852 was a town that had a saloon, a store, a few shacks and a new private high school. The Wilmington, Charlotte and Rutherfordton Railroad laid tracks through the town, but the first train didn’t arrive until 1861, four years before the railroad’s shops were also moved to Laurinburg in hopes of keeping them safe from the Yankees. The Yankees did burn the depot and the temporary shops, but the shops were rebuilt.

Economic issues that have hurt the town included the Great Depression, low cotton prices, the Belk department store moved away, and Hurricane Florence in 2018. I found the town had most of the storefronts occupied but very little happening and many of the stores closed when their schedules listed that they should be open.

The most famous citizen was Terry Sanford, a World War II paratrooper, N.C. governor and U.S. senator.

My final stop on U.S. 74 was at Monroe, county seat of Union County. Incorporated in 1843, the town was named for James Monroe, our country’s fifth president. I found the blocks around the courthouse to be very busy with traffic and plenty of restaurants, trendy bars and even a bread bakery. I was hungry but resisted the urge to stop in even though the smell was wonderful. The old-style movie theatre was set to show “Jaws” this weekend, complete with an all-you-can-eat popcorn and drink deal. More beautiful old homes were within just a few blocks of the courthouse on the southern side of town.

Most would count U.S. Sen. Jesse Helms as Monroe’s most famous past resident, being born here before becoming a five-term U.S. Senator. I also found that one of the three Black women who became world class mathematicians for NASA and were documented in the fantastic book Hidden Figures and the movie of the same name is also from Monroe. Christine Darden became an aeronautical engineer and the first African American to reach the level of senior executive service, the top rank of federal civil service.

The 1886 Union County Courthouse is one of the biggest I have seen of the grand old courthouses. The middle part was the original building, and the two wings were added in 1922. The old Monroe City Hall was originally built as a jail and is likely the oldest building in town after construction in 1847, although another plaque says 1848.

All the towns were historic and interesting along this portion of U.S. 74, and amazingly close together. My total miles on my feet for the four towns was 6.27, much of it flat. Our county total is now 34, with 66 left to visit. See you back here soon!

By David Freeze

I’m so much enjoying these visits to the county seats in North Carolina and used Sunday, April 23, to add to my list. First I wanted to visit Greensboro, county seat of Guilford, with less traffic. The old part of town was called Greensborough, formed in 1808, and is centered on Washington and Elm streets. The name changed to Greensboro in 1895. I ran several races in that area years ago, but this was my first time exploring the same streets.

Right away, I found the modern courthouse just by being lucky to park near it. Just ahead. I found the old Carolina Theatre which opened on Halloween 1927, and the site where Jefferson Davis held two of his last cabinet meetings after the Confederate President had fled Richmond in 1865. Next was the Cigar District, a big thing from 1903-55, employing mostly young women in 14 manufacturing shops on Elm Street.

In this area, Blue Duck electric scooters and bikes were parked everywhere for rent, a couple on a corner, another here or there. North Carolina’s first and only women’s Holocaust monument was unveiled at LeBauer Park on April 18. The statue, “She Wouldn’t Take Off Her Boots,” was designed in a shop on Elm Street. I visited the sprawling depot that serves Amtrak, Greyhound, city transportation and probably more.

The F.W. Woolworth store where four Black college freshmen sat down for lunch in the “whites only” section is now a Civil Rights Museum. Vicks VapoRub was created in a drug store nearby. The most impressive buildings in this area are the Lincoln Financial Tower at 20 stories next to the 18 story Jefferson Standard Building. The old town is full of interesting stores, most of them in historic buildings.

Modern Greensboro has lots of bagel stores and I had to visit one on the way out of town. I ate more bagels today than I have in total the last two months.

My next county seat was Graham, of Alamance. Graham became a town in 1851. It’s another town that surrounds the county courthouse built in 1923 and is loaded with interesting historic buildings. Parking was at a premium, with several large churches, shopping and one particular restaurant busy late on a Sunday morning. The Montwhite Building from 1907 was the Opera House first and one of the 70 downtown historic structures. There are several large historic mill buildings too, one with a separate bathroom building added in 1940. The 1902 Wrike Drugs is still in the original building with only the store front altered. The movie “Jesus Resolution” was showing all afternoon in the cinema building.

Most surprising to me was that the Press Restaurant offering coffee, crepes and cocktails had a 90-minute wait for a table. Graham is one of the few flat downtowns so far and has plenty to visit.

Then I drove on to Lexington, another historic downtown that I haven’t spent enough time in over the years. Lexington was incorporated in 1828 and named after Lexington, Massachusetts. I found a fantastic Old Davidson County Courthouse, now a museum, first built in 1858. The interior was burned in 1865 and repaired in 1867. I remain amazed at the quality, style and beauty of these old courthouses and this one is one of the best yet.

Two Lexington fixtures began with the Conrad Hinkle grocery store, built in 1919. Famous for old time homemade things like pimento cheese and chicken salad plus hand-cut meats, the store remains very popular. Just down the street is Lanier Hardware. Opened in 1940 and still operated by the Lanier family, locals say that if Lanier’s doesn’t have it in their 32,000 square feet of space, you don’t need it. The old post office became a library building but appears unused now. Decorative pigs are scattered along the sidewalks and each one advertises something different. Lexington calls itself the Barbecue Capital of the World.

Especially good was a statue near the police department of a uniformed officer holding the hand of a little girl while he talked with her. Bike racks along the sidewalk were placed in honor of local citizens. And the Sinfully Delicious custom bakery was taking orders for Elvis cakes. I hope to visit again next Sunday as the three-day 2nd Annual Elvis Festival targets a gospel competition.

The last city for this week is Concord, Cabarrus County seat. Concord means “to bring into harmony” and was first settled about 1750 and incorporated in 1806. It is the 10th largest city in North Carolina. Cotton and textile mills were stalwart industries as the city prospered. The 1839 Odell-Locke-Randolph Mill is now a popular retail space. Union Street is the one of the most beautiful streets I have ever seen with more than 200 historic structures. Often I have gone to Concord just to run out and back on Union, ending in the downtown area.

The historic and stately Cabarrus County Courthouse was built in 1876, one of four courthouses used since the town’s inception. Government buildings dominate the downtown area, with current courthouse expansion still underway and various city and county buildings. The City Hall and Cabarrus County Sheriff’s Office and Detention Center, in particular, were especially interesting.

Several large murals, one honoring the hometown Avett Brothers, can be seen, along with one of the original What-a-Burgers, labeled as location No. 2 on it’s sign.

A giant step forward is the streetscape construction now underway on downtown Union Street. When complete, bike lanes, significant landscape plantings and widened walking areas will highlight the area. Concord looks successful and growing, and I’m betting that continues.

Now with 30 county seats complete, 70 remain. I had 6.27 miles on foot in these four towns, all very enjoyable. We’ll continue soon!

By David Freeze

I grabbed another day of county seats on Thursday, April 13, working toward a goal of getting most of those west of here by early May. I love the mountains and looked forward to a pleasant day of driving, running and exploring with the best forecast of any of my recent trips.

Morganton, Burke County’s seat, was first on my list. Arriving just after 9 a.m., I found an already active welcome center with four women at work. I quickly had a downtown map with points of interest. I found the stately Burke County Courthouse as the focal point of the town. Built of local cut stone in 1835, the building also housed the August terms of the State Supreme Court from 1847-1861. The Spanish built a fort near here in 1567, 40 years before the first permanent English settlement at Jamestown, Virginia.

In 1864, a detachment of Union loyalist North Carolina troops attacked the Western North Carolina Railroad and a Confederate training camp just outside Morganton. Neighborhoods around the downtown area have lots of late 19th and early 20th century homes. The colorful downtown area has plenty of interesting and active stores with most storefronts in use. Just across the street from the historic courthouse is a large movie theatre.

Morganton’s Sam Ervin, U.S. Senator from 1954-74, was notable for the Watergate hearings and has his own statue next to the old courthouse and across from the modern one. Situated on top of the highest knoll in town, the old courthouse offers fantastic views of the surrounding foothills.

I found a “toasted and rolled” ice cream shop, though not open in the morning. New to me, this ice cream has a frozen base that can be rolled out in sheets and rerolled for serving. Can’t wait to try it.

My next stop was Newland, county seat of Avery County. It’s small but seems to have some of everything. Earlier called “Old Fields of Toe,” the town was renamed Newland after Lt. Governor William C. Newland in 1911. The courthouse and jail were both built in 1913. The courthouse also houses a correctional facility. While the courthouse is still in use, the old jail next door is now a museum.

The depot of the East Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad opened in 1914 and is still there along with a restored caboose even though the railroad discontinued operations in 1940.

A pleasant mountain drive took me to Bakersville, county seat of Mitchell County. On a day of small towns, this was the smallest but also likely the most interesting. Started in the 1850s, the town is named after Revolutionary soldier David Baker. His renovated home still stands and is owned by a part of author John Grisham’s family. Famous for its long running annual Rhododendron Festival, I had visited Bakersville several times in the 1990s to run the accompanying 10K race. Nearby on Roan Mountain is the largest rhododendron natural garden in the world with 600 acres. The festival, now in its 76th year, is June 16-18.

Cane Creek runs through the town and its banks form a nice park where one trout fisherman was flyfishing. In 1901, the little creek overflowed in what was called the “May Flood,” washing most of the town away.

Many of the small stores sell local mountain crafts inspired by the nearby Penland School of Crafts, which was a great story in itself. Penland offers spring, summer and fall workshops in craft disciplines that include weaving and dyeing, bead work, glassblowing, pottery, paper making, metalworking and woodworking. It also offers fine arts subjects, such as printmaking, painting and photography. Workshops are taught by visiting American and international artists and professors, a tradition that started in 1929. Academic degrees are not awarded by Penland, but students can receive college credit through Western Carolina University. There are about 1,200 people who study at Penland each year in 50 rustic buildings on 400 acres. Many of the students remain in the area, making more artists per capita than almost anywhere in the world.

The 1907 Mitchell County Courthouse dominates the downtown. I tried the visitor center a couple of times and found no one, so I asked at the Just Local Market. Megan Bell sold me some great cookies and took me to Sharon Rowland across the street at Bowditch Antiques and Collectibles. Sharon did her student teaching at East Rowan High School before changing professions and joining the Agricultural Extension Service. She took me back to the visitor center where I learned the real scoop about the town. Sharon said, “We’ve got a great little town and we just have to promote it.”

As I headed south toward Marion, county seat of McDowell County, I reflected on how much those ladies loved Bakersville and how special they made my visit. Marion, founded in 1844, was named for famous Revolutionary War General Francis Marion, the elusive Swamp Fox.

As the self-designated Salisbury Post Bigfoot expert, I was able to cover the first ever Bigfoot festival in Marion a few years ago. This year’s festival is just ahead on May 20, followed by the Livermush Festival on June 3. Former Kansas and UNC basketball coach Roy Williams was born in Marion and his Carolina friends erected a historical marker in his honor.

Marion’s slogan, “Where Main Street Meets the Mountains” fits because lots of excellent mountain views surround the downtown. A huge fire in 1894 gutted Main Street, destroying most businesses and homes. With no central water supply, citizens fought the fire unsuccessfully with a bucket brigade. A few brick buildings survived with damage, yet a vibrant downtown now exists.

I found gas at a reasonable price and headed home after another productive day. I drove 247 miles and covered 6.3 more on foot. That’s 25 county seats visited and 75 more to go. I’ll be back with more soon.

By David Freeze

My quest for more county seats across North Carolina continued on Thursday, April 8. I drove northwest to Sparta to start the day. Sparta is the county seat of Alleghany County and has a clean, small-town feel. Sparta is known most recently for an earthquake that occurred there on Aug. 9, 2020. Registering 5.1 on the Richter scale, this was the largest earthquake in North Carolina in 104 years and second largest ever.

Notable buildings along Main Street include the 1904 courthouse and a historical theatre that still hosts weekly community musical picking events as the Alleghany Jubilee. New to me and interesting is the promotion of Historic U.S. 21, Sparta’s Main Street, as an easier way to travel from the Great Lakes to Florida. The same distance as interstate highway travel, U.S. 21 is more scenic and fun.

Sparta is also on the Daniel Boone Highway and is gearing up to host a Fried Apple Pie Festival on May 6. Interesting too was the Sparta Presbyterian Church’s clothesline of free for the taking handmade toboggans for those in need of warmth. A mural honors country singer Del Reeves, Sparta’s most famous past resident.

I drove on scenic byways toward Jefferson, county seat of Ashe County, while listening to AM radio gospel hymns and farm reports. N.C. highways 18 and 88 took me past Christmas tree farms, one after another.

Jefferson is the smaller and less active sibling of next-door West Jefferson, a tourist destination in itself. Jefferson has the stately 1904 courthouse, now a museum. Designated as the county seat in 1799, it was named for then vice president and future president Thomas Jefferson. The New River, one of the oldest rivers in the world, flows through the town.

Next stop was Boone, county seat of Watauga County and a town I’ve visited often earlier in life but not recently. Home of Appalachian State University, Boone has a thriving downtown of trendy businesses along busy King Street. I looked forward to grabbing something for a quick lunch there and settled for two fantastic bagels at Boone Bagelry. Boone is named for Daniel Boone who camped several times in the current location of the downtown area. His nephews were members of the still existing Three Forks Baptist Church.

Two Boone-related area attractions draw tourists regularly. The outdoor drama Horn in the West depicts Daniel Boone’s contribution to those seeking freedom from British tyranny in the area and has been done every year since 1952. Boone had a hunting camp and a cabin in the area from about 1767-1773. Tweetie’s East Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad had tracks through the present site of ASU. A severe flood in 1940 damaged the tracks and it was decided to not replace them. The rain damage came from a stalled hurricane and left Boone isolated for days from the outside world as bridges were washed away and telephone service interrupted. At least 16 people died in the flooding.

Most of the people I saw on the streets were students although Boone is the center of the 7-county High Country tourist area. Another exciting surprise to me was the name of the local wood bat summer college league baseball team, the Boone Bigfoots. Another was the F.A.R.M. Café, which stands for “Feed All Regardless of their Means.” It is a small café only open for a few hours a day during lunch where customers pay what they can or volunteer.

As I left town, a thunderstorm dumped a downpour on the area but I drove out of it just of north of Lenoir, the next stop and county seat of Caldwell County. Established in 1841, Lenoir, first called Tucker’s Barn, was named for William Lenoir, a Revolutionary War general and statesman.

Famous for quality furniture, Lenoir is recognized as the “The Furniture Capital of the World.” Lenoir hosts the Bootlegger 100, a super challenging gravel cycling race in two weeks and the Blackberry Festival on July 15. Lenoir also has a downtown walking trail along which I found Paul Reid. I asked him how he was, and his response was, “If any better, I couldn’t stand it.” I told him about my 100-county challenge and asked him to check the Sunday Post. Full of interesting shops, Lenoir would be a fun place to spend a day. One shop worth visiting is “Dead People’s Stuff Antiques and Emporium.”

An oddity, the summer college wood bat league also has a team here called the Lenoir Legends. Bigfoot is also their team mascot!

My final stop for the day was my favorite. Newton is the county seat of Catawba County. By the end of the day, I didn’t want to dodge traffic, yet wanted to see an interesting town. Newton filled the bill. The historic downtown is centered around the 1924 courthouse and is undergoing a renovation that includes widened sidewalks, bike and walking lanes and enhancement of an adjacent park. “Six blocks in three phases makes for a bright future,” per the renovation slogan.

I found multiple restaurants and interesting things in the downtown area. Most storefronts were open and active. There is a huge flour mill, specializing in bakery flour, still in operation. A large modern recreation center complete with splash pad and gym is downtown, and the old post office has been made into the Post Office Playhouse with a busy schedule posted. A Bountiful Downtown Bunny Trail was going on for nine days with prizes. Murals and a still operating movie theatre called “The State,” still showing new movies, enhanced the area. A train depot with a caboose and rail car museum were just a short distance from the courthouse square area. Park and walk with lots to do in downtown Newton. There’s a nice bakery too!

A nice day with the best weather I’ve had so far. I had 227 driving miles and 7.91 miles on foot, all for another fun adventure! Back soon.

By David Freeze

On Tuesday, our running club worked one of my favorite events. For years, we have timed the running events at Special Olympics and we have a certain group of volunteers who doesn’t want to miss this very special morning. Tuesday’s competition was for high school students and adults. Catawba College hosted the event and Rowan County Parks and Recreation organized it. Edward Hailey from county parks and rec is the event director.

On Thursday, April 20, elementary and middle school Special Olympics athletes will have their own morning of competition. Athletes at both venues are escorted by student buddies from county high schools and local colleges.

Each athlete gets to choose one track event and one field event to compete in. Also, athletes who aren’t able to compete in an event can register and complete developmental activities. Track events are the 100- and 50-meter runs along with the 50-meter walk and 25-meter wheelchair race. The field events on Tuesday included a softball throw and the mini javelin throw. At West Rowan, the younger athletes can compete in the standing and running long jumps.

Tuesday’s schedule included a welcoming ceremony complete with an Olympics torch, recognition of the schools and other organizations who brought athletes and an athlete’s prayer.

Hailey said, “This event provides athletes an opportunity to compete with their peers. It also provides a supportive and social event where buddies and athletes can interact in a positive way. On Tuesday, we had 110 athletes competing and on the 20th we should have around 120 including some less than 8 years old and elementary and middle school ages.”

In the past, many of the athletes trained for state competitions, but Hailey said, “We currently are not able to field a state athletics delegation. For competition at the state level, athletes must train for a minimum of eight weeks to be eligible. At present, we do not have a coach for athletes to run the required trainings.”

Hailey wanted to thank Catawba College and West Rowan High School for hosting the events. He also recognized The Civitan Club of Salisbury for assisting with ribbons for awards, the Salisbury Rowan Runners who help with the running events, the Rowan Salisbury Schools EC Department that is key to helping register and bringing student athletes, the Lions Clubs of both Cleveland and Salisbury and Rowan County Parks and Recreation staff. Special thanks go to the Special Olympics Rowan County Steering Committee who plans, coordinates and runs the event.

Both events are open to the public and are very well attended and often super competitive. For more information contact Hailey at Edward.hailey@rowancountync.gov

The next race ahead for Rowan County is a familiar one with a new name. The One In 5K and Fun Run is managed by the Family Crisis Council and the name replaces the Stomp Out Sexual Abuse 5K. The race will be held on April 22 at Knox Middle School. The 5K starts at 9 a.m. and the half-mile fun run will begin on the track at approximately 9:45 a.m. Lots of quality awards, refreshments and a commemorative T-shirt are included in registration fees. Go to www.runsignup.com to register or print off a form at www.salisburyrowanrunners.org.

Race Director Christina Rary, also the FCC executive director, heads the One In 5K. She said, “Race proceeds will go to support Family Crisis Council of Rowan. April is Sexual Assault Awareness month. One in five women and one in 13 men experience sexual violence by an intimate partner in their lifetime. Members of the LGBTQIA+ community and other historically marginalized communities experience sexual assault at drastically higher rates. Run, walk or stroll with us to provide essential resources for survivors in our community!”

Since 1978, Family Crisis Council of Rowan has provided services such as emergency shelter, hospital accompaniment, court advocacy, case management and counseling to victims of sexual assault, domestic violence, incest and human trafficking in Rowan County.

For other events on the local running calendar, go to www.salisburyrowanrunners.org.

By David Freeze

I planned on traveling along N.C. 150 toward Lincolnton and points west on cloudy and rainy Sunday, March 26. I arrived in Lincolnton, county seat of Lincoln County, about 9 a.m. and the same time that a heavy downpour hit the area. I had a new FroggToggs rain jacket and put it to work. Chartered in 1813, Lincolnton was founded on the 1780 Revolutionary War Ramsour’s Mill battle site, a small battle won by the independence forces.

Expecting not much activity, I was pleasantly surprised to find good things happening. The courthouse dominates the historic downtown, with lots of other historic buildings and churches within a few blocks. Several of the churches had services going on, one from a storefront. A farm market store was serving breakfast food as was the Sweet Side Bakery and Café, where I got two of the biggest donuts I’ve seen. One was a blackberry crumble, which really hit the spot. Hailee Jarry, owner, was very welcoming, as I visited my 13th county seat.

Other interesting finds included the Cloninger Rail Trail, 1.7 miles for running, walking and cycling on an asphalt surface. It’s part of the Carolina Thread Trail and passes right under main street, just as the train used to do. Beautiful murals are everywhere, and large pottery is displayed through shopping area. Lincolnton was the site of the first textile mill in the south, and notable buildings include the Lincoln Cultural Center and Emmanuel Lutheran Church.

Back on 150, the next stop was Shelby, seat of Cleveland County. The city was chartered in 1843 and was named for Revolutionary War Hero Isaac Shelby. Considered a textile boom town, Shelby mills paid among the highest wages in the south.

Among the famous locals were singer Don Gibson, bluegrass banjo picker Earl Scruggs and NFL star Bobby Bell. Gibson has an active musical theatre and Scruggs has an ongoing exhibit located in another magnificent and restored courthouse, the centerpiece of Shelby that was built in 1907. Court activities are now held in the Law Enforcement Building, while the restored courthouse also houses a museum.

The next most dominating building is the Charles Hotel, first built in the 1890s. It caught fire in 1928, just ahead of the depression but was able to reopen in 1929. Not currently a hotel, a study is currently underway to possibly restore it again.

Washington Street is a sort of mini-Fulton Street with magnificent older homes, the most famous being Webbley, built in 1852 and once home to NC Governor O. Max Gardner. The city is also home to the American Legion World Series each summer.

Next stop was Columbus, a first time visit for me, and the county seat for Polk County. There’s a historic Columbus and the modern one next to Interstate 26. The courthouse was built in 1855, still in use, and amazingly had open bathrooms on a midday Sunday. In this area, the Civil War divided neighbors as there was some residents remaining loyal to the Union. Four Confederate Companies were formed at the courthouse. Hardships of the war fostered resentment, causing draft evaders and deserters to find refuge in the mountains from where they formed gangs, raided farms and communities. Hard feelings lingered for years.

The town was named after Dr. Columbus J. Mills, considered the “Father of Polk County.” The other major building in town is the former Stearns School building, built in 1917 and used through 1988 with first through 12th grades. The grounds are decorated with library art and a walking trail that follows the pages of the book “Snowmen at Night,” a 2004 children’s book. The historic part of town also has the House of Flags Museum, the only one in the United States, plus a thriving Mexican restaurant and an unlocked foyer of the visitor’s center.

Next came Hendersonville, the county seat of Henderson County. Just a quick drive north on Interstate 26 from Columbus put me on Main Street. Chartered in 1847, the town’s Main Street is well preserved with lots of old buildings that now house restaurants, trendy shopping, boutiques and antique stores.

The Henderson County Courthouse, built in 1905 and completely renovated in 2008, dominates the downtown area and is still in use for some services since the new courthouse was completed in 1995.

Several things I found interesting included many ceramic bear statues along Main Street. I read that the bears mysteriously disappear near the New Year and are replaced by new ones. One building now called the Charleston Inn was built in 1906 with two stories, but a third story was added about 10 years later. Throughout its history, the building had about a half dozen names. The Mast General Store has a Main Street location.

My final destination for the day was Rutherfordton, county seat of Rutherford County. Founded in 1787, it is one of the oldest towns in western North Carolina. Rutherfordton is the site of the first gold mint in the U.S., called the Bechtler mint. Christopher Bechtler made his first gold dollar in 1832, 17 years before the U.S. mint. The Bechtler Mint closed in 1849. Gold dollar replicas are pressed into the downtown sidewalk at various intervals.

Named for Revolutionary War General Griffith Rutherford, Rutherfordton’s Main Street is loaded with historic sites, including another wonderful courthouse, this one built in 1925/26. It has a 75-foot tall Christmas tree, already decorated with lights and a star on top. Same as my windmill. The 1847 St. John’s Episcopal Church looks ready for a small congregation. Two historic houses side by side are called the Carrier Houses and are bed and breakfast locations, one built in 1835 and the other in 1879.

The 13.5-mile Thermal Belt Rail Trail connects Ruth, Rutherfordton, Spindale and Forest City, and is used for walking, running and cycling.

All these towns were active on a Sunday that started rainy and ended sunny. I had 7.95 miles on my feet and 242 on my truck. Seventeen counties down, 83 to go. See you soon with more!

By David Freeze

I will admit that I am becoming addicted to visiting the county seats of all 100 counties. At the last minute, I headed north on Wednesday to skirt the Virginia line in order to visit some of the less populated areas. And what fun it was!

I had my eye on Danbury, the seat of Stokes County, from the start because of its small size. What I found on a day of very scenic mountain-like drives was a history laden town of about 142 residents. General Stoneman’s Union force of up to 5,000 men occupied Danbury on April 9 and 10, 1865. He took over Moody’s Tavern, partly because of a hilltop view to the east and west where he thought resistance may come from. Stoneman got word of Lee’s surrender at Appomattox while here. The tavern is still there, built before 1860, but it later became McCanless Hotel. A portion of an old iron works is also still in town, the iron used for Confederate cannons, rifles and swords.

Founded in 1851, Danbury had multiple interesting sites. The Danbury Cemetery, established in 1856, had multiple rows of very small and unreadable monuments. The old courthouse is spectacular, and one source said that Danbury got the county seat because of its central location. There are at least three old but still active church buildings and a few active businesses. One is the Artists Way Creations Bakery and Café where I got a cinnamon bun, a cupcake and two oatmeal cookies.

Next I headed to Wentworth, the county seat of Rockingham County. Historic Wentworth was also amazing, yet I drove by it because Siri told me that I hadn’t reached town yet. Siri’s Wentworth was a new and sprawling courthouse with various government agencies nearby. I drove back to the historic part and explored it in the rain. First chartered as Rockingham Courthouse, the town became Wentworth in 1794.

I found Wright Tavern, built in 1816, and still in good shape. It is called a dog run building, common during that period and meaning that a breezeway exists on the first floor. Wentworth Presbyterian Church was organized in 1859, again just ahead of the Civil War, as was Ratliffe’s store which served as the post office. The magnificent old courthouse was built in 1907 replacing the one that burned in 1906 after being built in 1824. Several Confederate infantry companies were formed at the 1824 structure.

Especially interested in Ratliffe’s store, I noted that the foundation was made of flat and stacked rocks. I couldn’t see inside the store but can only imagine the history of the building. The courthouse is now a museum and was open during my visit. The old jail is just across the road from the courthouse.

I headed east for more of the same in Yanceyville, county seat of Caswell County and founded in 1792. I found a similar historic area as with Danbury and Wentworth, but this time clearly the center of the town. Dominating the town center is possibly my favorite courthouse so far, surrounded by history and memoriam. Yanceyville was either named for U.S. Congressman Bartlett Yancey or his older brother James. Debate still lingers over this topic. Bartlett Yancey’s home remains, painted in a light shade of purple.

Courthouse square has many antebellum homes nearby, one built in 1836 that adjoins the square. Within a short walking distance behind the courthouse are the old jail, used from 1906 to 1973 and the first one built in N.C. with the intention of hanging prisoners inside. It was never used for that purpose because the laws changed the year after it was built. Also behind the courthouse are the one room Poteat Schoolhouse, used around 1900, and an arboretum. Notable were the side by side memorials to the local soldiers of the Confederacy and to Nicholas Dillard, the local man credited with ending segregation in the area.

Speaking of antebellum homes, I spent about 12 miles on N.C. 150 before leaving the Caswell County area. I was amazed at the amount of older homes still in use along this road. I have never seen so many of them like this anywhere in the country. It’s well worth the ride if you visit the area.

I decided to finish my visit to Mocksville on the way home. I had earlier visited the grave of Daniel Boone’s parents and needed to finish my visit to the county seat of Davie County. I was not disappointed. I found a bustling and busy Main Street, all in sight of their courthouse, that included many restored buildings. One previously housed a tobacco factory from 1866-1882 and another a general store that began in 1905. A large mural depicted how horses were unloaded from the train during World War II for use on the local farms since gasoline was scarce. Those horses were run through town to a corral next to a blacksmith shop.

A lot of attention is given to Daniel Boone, remembered as a hunter, explorer, backwoodsman, surveyor, legislator and more during his time in Davie County from 1750-65. His monument sits in front of the courthouse, commemorative of the Boone Trail Highway. Just down the street is the restored Carolina Frost Cabin, built before 1840, about the time that Mocksville was incorporated in 1839.

Mocksville, just like all the others of this day, is loaded with history. Loaded with impressive old homes and churches too and I always enjoy driving through town. The big courthouse is still in use.

With 12 counties complete, I look forward to visiting the other 88. Some will be on multi-day trips. I spent 6.06 miles on my feet today and drove 246 miles to visit these wonderful towns. No duds here! We’ll continue soon.