David Freeze

By David Freeze

With seven eastern counties and Rowan left, I have been anxious to get back at it. I planned one long trip to the Outer Banks to finish them. Four of the county seats had been on my run across the state. First up on Sept. 26 was Williamston, the first of the Inner Banks towns. Williamston is the county seat of Martin County. It was founded in 1779 as Williamston five years after it was recognized as Tar Landing in 1774. Williamston was named after William Williams, a local military hero. The Martin County Courthouse was built in 1885.

The town is on the Roanoke River which helped make the town a trade center. The railroad came to town and the town flourished with both river and rail traffic. The one-mile Skewarkee Trail connects downtown and a riverside boardwalk on the Roanoke River via a converted railroad bed. The paved trail is used by bicyclists, walkers, skaters and others.

Pitcher Gaylord Perry, a member of the Baseball Hall of Fame, and his brother Jim, also a professional baseball pitcher, were born here.

My second stop was Plymouth, one of my favorite towns and part of the Inner Banks while also on the Roanoke River. Plymouth is just eight feet above sea level. I actually visited Plymouth twice before. My Atlantic coast cycling journey went through Plymouth as did my run across N.C. I started with the downtown area which includes the 1918 Martin County Courthouse, last built in 1918 and still in use. Three previous courthouse buildings had been destroyed by fire, twice during the Civil War.

Established in 1787, the town is thought to be named Plymouth because ships from Plymouth, Massachusetts, often stopped at the town port.

Plymouth has the historical distinction of being the site of the second-largest Civil War battle in North Carolina and its last Confederate victory in 1864. The Confederate ironclad warship CSS Albemarle helped win the battle but then sank on Oct. 27, 1864, while moored at a dock in Plymouth. Throughout the old town are historical signs concerning movements of both sides during the 1864 battle.

Union forces captured the town in May 1862, and the Confederate forces won it back in December of the same year but withdrew shortly afterward. The Confederate forces took Plymouth back in April 1864 and the Union recaptured the town in October of that year. Only 11 buildings are still standing from the pre-Civil War period due to burning and heavy bombardment.

Another notable landmark is the Roanoke River Lighthouse which was erected by the U.S. Lighthouse Service in 1866. The Port of Plymouth Museum is said to be first class and a 3/8 scale model of the CSS Albemarle, the most successful ironclad in the war, floats behind it in the river. Maybe on my fourth visit to the town, I will tour the museum which is housed in an old train depot.

South of Plymouth was my next stop, Swan Quarter. I had never visited this area and was surprised at the huge amount of corn and soybeans being grown locally. Interesting were the continuous water drainage ditches beside the roads and plenty of water standing in the fields of crops ready for harvest.

Swan Quarter is the county seat of Hyde County. The 1855 courthouse and jail still stand, with the modern courthouse just behind it. In the 18th century, Samuel Swann settled along the Pamlico Sound near the head of Swan Bay. Swann’s Quarter was the first name given to this settlement. Eventually shortened to Swan Quarter, it became the county seat in 1836.

Fishing, oystering and crabbing are staples for the small town. Dozens of fishing boat carcasses line the marina. The first church built in the town broke loose from its foundation in a major storm and floated down Main Street before colliding with the general store and ended up on a lot that the townspeople originally wanted, but the owner wouldn’t sell. He did sell after seeing the likelihood of God’s hand in its movement. The historic Swan Quarter Baptist Church had its doors open to the public while I toured the town.

The last stop of the day was Columbia, another Inner Banks town. One of my most harrowing nights happened here on my run across the state. I had a group scheduled to meet me at Nag’s Head fishing pier later that day. Never having done more than 32 miles a day, I started at 4 a.m. in the total dark on an Easter Sunday. Two residents told me not to do that because, “This is black bear territory!” The total darkness worried me some wondering what was watching me until daylight came. I did complete 42 miles and finished the journey that day.

Originally called Elizabethtown, the town was established on the banks of the Scuppernong River in 1793 and became the Tyrrell County seat in 1799. The Indians called the area “the place of the sweet bay tree.” A waterfront boardwalk exists today.

The name of the town was changed to Columbia in 1801, to avoid confusion with another Elizabethtown in Bladen County. The courthouse was built in 1903 and is still in use. Locals have subsisted on mercantile trade, milling, and maritime occupations including boat building. The lumber and logging industry have also been important.

By David Freeze

I always love to see families come out to races. Usually those families include 2, 3 or 4 people. But more and more, one of those tall vans with lots of seats has been arriving at the races. And when they unload, it takes a while. On and on they come, all ready to race in some form.

With kids of all sizes in the group, I’ve watched how close they all are and how helpful to each other as they get ready to hit the starting line. Lisa Burleson, runner, mom and grandmom of the group, told me why each one runs or walks. One of their first big events was the Greenway 5K back in mid-July. They have since pumped up the attendance at other races including the Run for the Word 5K in Landis and the Race to the River 5K in Spencer, both in September.

Elizabeth, 14, said, “I wanted to be in the races because doing a 5K was on my bucket list. I wanted to walk a 5K with my Papaw and I got to do just that.” Earlier she was exclusively a walker, but is now mixing in some running.

Joanna, 2, about to turn 3 and a happy fun run participant, said, “I had to do it so I can get faster and faster. I love to run in my running shirt.” She practices often.

Gideon, 11 months, has been along for the ride, pushed by his dad, Sam.

Naomi, 11, said, “When I run, I get to spend special time with my mom. I enjoy being outside in different places. Someday, I want to ride a bike to the Outer Banks.” I can help her with that.

Sam, 38, said, “I like to run to clear my head. I want to better my time. Rather than listening to music, I use the time to reflect and think.” And Sam keeps the kids often while Lisa, Hannah and Naomi run or walk the country roads around their side by side homes. He often pushes a double stroller.

Hannah, 37, said, “I am regaining strength and endurance through running. I especially enjoy running with Naomi and mom. Sam helps with our children to provide time for me.”

Lisa, 64, said, “Exercise is a great way for our family to spend time together. After taking SRR’s running class, I want to continue to increase my endurance.” Hannah, Naomi and Sam all took the class.

Rick, 67, said, “My granddaughter asked me to walk with her this summer in a 5K. I was not sure I could do it. But I made it. I plan to begin a walking regimen. I am so blessed to be a stage 4 cancer survivor.”

Another son, 6-year-old Nathaniel, has run in four fun runs already this year. Nathaniel says he is getting stronger and faster and is proud of himself for running.

In retrospect, this Burleson and McDonald combined family inspires others. Imagine the work to get this whole crowd out of bed and fed in time to drive 20 minutes and still get everyone to an 8 a.m. race in plenty of time. It takes a cohesive unit to do this. Nothing is better than that, especially with running and walking a big part of the mix.

Already, October is just around the corner. Oct. 14 has the Sacred Heart Dolphin Dash 5K and Fun Run. Then it’s double Halloween fun at the St. Matthews 5K and Fun Run, on Oct. 28, followed by the long-running Spooky Sprint 5K and Fun Run at Catawba College on the next day, Oct. 29.

And finally, if you are new to running or racing, or are starting to consider it, you’ve got great weather to give it a try. Cooler weather makes exercise and outdoor activity more fun and a little bit easier. Check www.salisburyrowanrunners.org for more races and activities.

By David Freeze

Last Saturday, we had the Run for the Word 5K in Landis. The second annual event was a huge success and benefitted the high school and middle school Bible teachers in the South Rowan area.

Races are complex, with a long list of must-haves to make sure things go well. Nothing is more important than volunteers. In fact, when I talk to a prospective race director about his or her organization and the charity that they want to benefit, one of my first statements includes the need for quality volunteers.

To make this need for volunteering most significant, no races will happen without volunteers! It is astonishing to me that many runners or their families have never volunteered at a race. They just expect the event to happen regardless. It won’t. After almost 45 years of both racing and volunteering, I can make the statement that runners need to complete the loop by volunteering.

Here are some of the benefits you receive from volunteering:

Volunteering makes you social: One of the most notable advantages of volunteering is the effect you leave on the community as a whole. It permits you to form a strong bond with those around you. Remember that even small acts of kindness can make a real difference. Also, volunteering is as beneficial to you as it is to the community. Devoting your time as a volunteer assists you with making new companions, growing your organization, and lifting your social abilities. Volunteering boosts self-esteem: You are doing useful things for other people and the community, which gives a characteristic feeling of achievement. Your part as a volunteer can likewise give you a feeling of pride and purpose. Furthermore, the better you feel about yourself, the better perspective you have on your life and future objectives. Volunteering can give a feeling of direction. Whatever your age or life circumstance, volunteering can help you to take a break from your own concerns, keep you intellectually invigorated, and add more zeal to your life.

Volunteering helps you stay healthy: Volunteering can be significant for emotional well-being. It can help reduce anxiety, stress and depression. Surely, the social contact which is a part of helping other people can profoundly affect your general mental prosperity. Studies show that individuals who volunteer have a lower death rate than the individuals who do not. More seasoned volunteers are less inclined to foster stress and have better-thinking abilities. Volunteering can likewise diminish the side effects of chronic pain and lessen the risk of coronary illness. I have two examples of how these things work. Pam Roseman is a local doctor of physical therapy. Pam is also the race director of the Clean Water 5K set for Nov. 11 at Grace Lutheran Church. She is in Michigan this weekend doing a half-Ironman Triathlon. Charleen Allegrezza is a retired restaurant owner. Both were course monitors in important areas at the Run for the Word. Pam, who races often, loved doing the other side of the event and said, “It was such a joy to cheer the runners on the course. I really loved it while helping give me perspective for my own race next Sunday.” Charleen, a regular SRR volunteer when we serve lunches at Rowan Helping Ministries, jumped in when she saw runners starting to get off course at the turnaround and saved a bunch of headaches afterward. One recent race had some runners get off course due to a missing volunteer and sorting it out was not fun.

Of course, my purpose for this article is not just to address volunteering at races. Regardless of where you volunteer, the same benefits apply. In my own case, I love to volunteer because it takes me away from my own projects and concerns for the time being. I can just enjoy this new event and who I meet, while savoring the results.

Races have many jobs that volunteers can do. At Run for the Word, more than 30 course monitors worked the turns and corners while others announced times at mile markers. Still more helped with registration and refreshments.

The next race locally is Donuts for Dollars at GNC in Salisbury on Nov. 4. Look for this and more races and volunteering opportunities at www.salisburyrowanrunners.org.

By David Freeze

I am still working to get caught up with various things following my bike ride and we’ll spend a few minutes on them in this column. It is great to be home, another wonderful cycling adventure complete and the book underway.

Last Saturday, Catawba College Cross Country hosted the Fleet Invitational at Salisbury Community Park. Both the Catawba men’s and women’s teams had dominating performances with the top five women and top 10 men leading the field. The women were led by Madi Clay from Morganton who posted 18 minutes and 24.8 seconds for the 5K as the top five women garnered a perfect score of 15. Lowest scores win in cross country.

The men took the top 10 spots, all within 52 seconds. Sophomore Tanner Smith took first place in the 8K with a time of 26 minutes, 28.4 seconds. The Catawba men also had a perfect score of 15 on the very pleasant, sunny morning.

Jason Bryan, Catawba cross country coach, said, “We are very excited about both the men’s and women’s teams this year and the talent that this team has. We have never had the depth on both sides like we have this season and it showed at our first meet. We have a lot of work still to do in order to reach our team goals, but these students are ready to get after it each week and continue to build this program into one of the best in the Southeast! Our women’s team will have to contend with some very talented programs within our conference and region that have been good for a while. In order to have a chance to win against those teams, we will need to stay healthy and hungry. On the men’s side, we have one of the best teams in the country in our conference in Wingate (National Runner-up last season). In order to continue to build the men’s team into a perennial NCAA qualifier, the culture of team first will be most important. We hope to get both teams to the NCAA Championship meet in Joplin, Missouri, on Nov. 18 — and have fun along the way!”

One of the most interesting events in Rowan County is coming up next weekend. The Race to the River 5K will take off from Spencer at 2 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 16, and run down Salisbury Avenue to the Yadkin River Park and the Wilcox Bridge. The 5K proceeds go to Rowan Creek Week. In addition, there is quality entertainment scheduled at the new Yadkin Park after the race. The new 5K course is very fast, with the last two miles a steady downhill to the river. All abilities of runners and walkers are encouraged to participate, with great shirts, awards and refreshments at the completion. There is also a fun run for kids, 12 and under.

Creek Week is a week-long celebration of local waters throughout North Carolina. This year, Rowan Creek Week will be Sept. 16-23. In conjunction with multiple organizations and local municipal departments, Creek Week offers recreational, educational, and volunteer opportunities to allow everyone to enjoy and contribute to healthy waters in our area.

Join the Pedal Factory for a bike ride from downtown Salisbury to Spencer (Leg 1) and/or from Spencer to the Yadkin River Park (Leg 2). Leg 1 departs The Pedal Factory bike shop (311 E Council St., Salisbury) at 2 p.m. Leg 2 departs Spencer Town Hall (460 S. Salisbury Avenue, Spencer) in Park Plaza at 2:45 p.m. Participants must BYO bikes and helmets, or rentals are available. Advance signup is required. For more information, contact the Pedal Factory at 704-870-7145.

Join Row Co River Adventures for a guided group sunset paddle along the Yadkin River. The group will meet and launch at the York Hill Boat Access at Yadkin River Park at 6 p.m. The approximate trip is a one-hour, easy paddle. Row Co River Adventures will be providing kayak rentals for the event. Participants can rent a single or double kayak for a nominal fee. Have your own equipment? Join us at no cost. Advance signup is required. To book a rental please contact Nicky at Row Co River Adventures at 704-433-1066 or email rowco@rowcoriveradventures.com.

To keep our waterways clean, the Town of Spencer, Spencer Police Department, Rowan County Soil and Water Conservation District, and Rowan County Public Health will be hosting a Medication Take-Back event for citizens to dispose of unused or expired medications from 1-2:30 p.m. at Spencer Town Hall (460 South Salisbury Avenue, Spencer). The 5K and fun run registration will be held at the same location from 1:30-2:45 p.m.

Look for more information on the Race to the River and other upcoming events at www.salisburyrowanrunners.org or call 704-310-6741.

By David Freeze

I am just back from my bike ride and eager to get rolling with our running and racing opportunities for the late summer and fall. There are two new races and two more with new twists, plus two of our biggest that are back in place.

First is a low key and non-competitive but still very popular event. The Ralph Baker’s Shoes and Chick-Fil-A Prediction Run 5K is more about fun and a chance to win prices, eat well and just plain have a good time. The event is being held at City Park, starting at 8 a.m. on Aug. 26. SRR members are free and anyone else can register for $30, the cost of an annual membership. A prediction run means that all participants predict a time to cover 3.1 miles, all without wearing a watch, carrying a phone or any other timing device. The slowest runner or walker are usually more likely to win with the closest prediction time, largely because they seem to be more consistent.

Next up is one of the new races, The Robert Stephen Gilmore Labor of Love 5K presented by the Javon Hargrave Foundation. The 5K will be held at Knox Middle School at 9 a.m., likely still on the long-time course. All proceeds go to support Stephen’s Purpose. The 3.1-mile race in honor of Robert Stephen Gilmore will raise monies to benefit children who may experience cancer or developmental delays. This race will benefit children and families in need in our community.

On Sept. 9, the action is at the Run for the Word 5K and Fun Run hosted by Trinity Lutheran Church in Landis. The course is likely the flattest in the county and the town of Landis supports course safety throughout the event. All proceeds go to the South Rowan Bible Teachers Association for the costs of Bible teachers at Carson and South Rowan high schools, Corriher-Lipe and China Grove middle schools with the possible addition soon of Southeast Middle School.

Spencer’s Race to the River 5K and Fun Run will leave the fire department at 2 p.m. and race north straight to the Wil-Cox Bridge and Yadkin River. The very hilly first mile from last year has been changed to a straight shot down Salisbury Avenue to the river, at least two-thirds of the course on a fast downhill. The town of Spencer will showcase its energetic and growing Parks program. Non-competitive cycling and kayak events are also involved. Awards, three deep this year, and entertainment will be held at the new Yadkin River Park Trailhead. The event benefits Rowan Creek Week and starts at 2 p.m.

GNC is presenting the Dollars for Donuts 5K and Fun Run on Oct. 7 to benefit the Salisbury Police Department Foundation with the intent of providing various means of support to the officers and associated personnel. The Police Department Foundation is not funded by the city of Salisbury. The race will be headquartered at the GNC store, and the course has not been finalized but will be in close proximity to the store. This is another new event.

Back again is the Clean Water 5K and Fun Run at Grace Lutheran Church. Globally, 1.8 billion people, about one out of every four people, drink from contaminated water sources. Unsafe water leads to illnesses that claim the lives of 840,000 people each year, almost half of whom are children under the age of five. What’s more, women and children spend hours each day collecting water. This keeps them from school, work, education and time with family. All proceeds from the race will benefit the Evangelical Lutheran Church in America (ELCA) Global Water Ministry.

The Girls on the Run of the Greater Piedmont 5K follows the next day, Nov. 12, as a celebration event at Salisbury Community Park at 2 p.m. The is the largest fall event, with approximately 800 GOTR graduates and a running buddy for most of them. Community runners can register separately.

And finally, Salisbury’s largest competitive 5K, and a Salisbury holiday tradition, will be held on Thanksgiving morning at 8:30 a.m. at The Forum. All proceeds go to Prevent Child Abuse Rowan.

Look for these events and more at www.salisburyrowanrunners.org and www.runsignup.com.

By David Freeze

My first stop on July 8 was Jacksonville, home of Camp Lejeune and the New River Air Station of the U.S. Marines. Its population is listed as the youngest in the nation with an average age of 22.8 because of the large military presence.

In 1752, a devastating hurricane destroyed the county seat of Johnston, and Wantlands Ferry, located further up the New River, at the present site of Jacksonville was chosen as the site of the new county courthouse. The first court was held there in July 1757. The area, briefly known as Onslow Courthouse, was incorporated and renamed Jacksonville in honor of former U.S. President Andrew Jackson in 1842. Jacksonville was briefly captured and occupied during the Civil War in November 1862 by a Union Army raiding party.

Agricultural and naval products, (pine oil, turpentine and resin) along with lumber could be shipped along the New River and were the mainstays of the economy during this time. Jacksonville and Onslow County got a big boost in 1941 when a Marine Corps base for amphibious training was established which later became Camp Lejeune.

Established in 1709, Beaufort is located on Beaufort Inlet, a channel leading south to the Atlantic Ocean. The third oldest town in the state and seat of Carteret County, Beaufort has lots of visitor traffic during the warmer months and it was booming when I was there on a Saturday morning.

Beaufort was first known as Fishtown because the fishing industry has always been an important part of the county’s history. Beaufort was later named for Henry Somerset, British Duke of Beaufort.

Originally a fishing village and a safe harbor since the late 1600s, about 150 of the restored historic homes bear plaques showing names of the earliest known owners and dates of original construction. Some of the historic towns do none of this and it’s impossible to tell the age of the homes.

Fishing, whaling, the production of lumber and naval stores, shipbuilding, and farming were the chief economic activities. Though Beaufort had the safest and most navigable harbor of any of the ports of North Carolina, extensive commercial development hasn’t happened. Now, Beaufort’s economy depends heavily on tourism. An entire 12-block area is on the National Register of Historic Places. The waterfront is beautiful and multiple tours are available.

The Carteret County Courthouse, completed in 1907, was the centerpiece for a sprawling vendor festival where I bought a huge egg, cheese, potato and black bean burrito.

Burgaw is the county seat of Pender County and is a railroad town that came to be when the Wilmington and Raleigh Railroad Company routed its tracks in 1836 across Burgaw Creek, where a small cross-roads trading post already existed. When completed in 1840, this railroad line was the longest in the world at 161½ miles.

In January 1854, the spot on the rails was called Burgaw Depot after the small trading post had been Cypress Grove. The depot is the oldest in the state circa 1850 and is part of the North Carolina Civil War Trail, one of my favorite signs.

During the Civil War, the railroad carried fresh troops to the battlefields and brought back the sick and wounded. Military supplies came from the port of Wilmington to the fighting fronts and kept the depot very busy. Confederate generals and their troops used the depot for weeks after the loss of Ft. Fisher and Wilmington. The railroad and its depots fell to the Union forces on Feb. 22, 1865. The depot warehouse still bears the charred scars of a Union cavalry attack in 1863. In 1865, it also became the holding site for at least 6,000 prisoners of war for over a week in February 1865 while a massive prisoner exchange was negotiated in Richmond and Washington, D.C. The depot was a vital communications center with so many things going on.

On Feb. 6, 1876, the railroad deeded a plot of land to Pender County for the establishment of the town and for the new courthouse. Burgaw was incorporated on Dec. 8, 1879. The current courthouse, built in 1936, is the centerpiece of the town.

Next came Wilmington, county seat of New Hanover County and one of my favorite stops. In September 1732, a community was founded on land owned by John Watson on the Cape Fear River. The settlement was called New Carthage, then New Liverpool, New Town and Newton. Governor Gabriel Johnston established his government there for the North Carolina colony. In 1739 or 1740, the town was incorporated with a new name, Wilmington, in honor of Spencer Compton, British Earl of Wilmington.

Naval stores and lumber fueled the economy, but residents began to push back against the Stamp Act, a British tax on shipping. Various riots and other trouble eventually forced the repeal of the tax, but unrest caused the state capital’s move to New Bern.

During the Civil War, Wilmington’s port was the major base for Confederate and privately owned blockade runners, which delivered badly needed supplies from England. The Union mounted a blockade to reduce the goods received by the South. The city was captured by Union forces in the Battle of Wilmington in February 1865, about one month after the fall of Fort Fisher had closed the port. As nearly all the military action took place some distance from the city, numerous antebellum houses and other buildings survived the war years.

Wilmington’s was called Hollywood East during the 1980s and 1990s because many movies and TV shows were filmed here. The Riverwalk is first class, made even better by the USS North Carolina Battleship.

Bolivia was my last stop, county seat of Brunswick. One of the smallest county seats in the state, it has a few small businesses, a school and a modern government complex. The town was incorporated in 1911 and named after Bolivia, South America.

That’s 90 county seats visited. The final 10 will come sometime this fall. I netted 7.81 miles today. See you soon with more, including Rowan. Thanks for following this series!

By David Freeze

Whiteville was my last stop on July 3, probably the hottest day of my statewide challenge so far. Whiteville is the county seat of Columbus County. Whiteville is centered around the old courthouse, built in 1914-1915 and currently undergoing a major remodeling.

Columbus County was created in 1808. In 1810, a community was planned on land owned by James B. White and originally called White’s Crossing. A post office called Whiteville started in 1821 and the town was incorporated in 1832. The Union army sacked the town late in the Civil War. Whiteville hosts the Pecan Harvest Festival annually. Vineland Station, the town’s depot built in 1903 and one of the state’s first brick depots, serves as Whiteville’s Civic Center. Several old churches and a bank building caught my eye, as did some historic houses within a couple blocks of the courthouse.

Nashville, county seat of Nash County was first called Nash Court House and then became Nashville in 1780 and got a post office in 1805. Nashville features many historic homes. The town and its county were named for Francis Nash, who was mortally wounded at the Battle of Germantown, Pennsylvania while in command of N.C. troops during the Revolutionary War. The first courthouse was completed in 1778 and a historical marker denotes the ghost of the pastor convicted for murder who still inhabits it. The next Nash County courthouse was built in 1921 and a newer one is now in use. Nashville hosts the Blooming Festival each spring and Gov. Roy Cooper was born here.

Next up was the town of Washington, county seat of Beaufort County. I had heard of it for years but had never stopped in. Washington is located on the northern bank of the Pamlico River. It is commonly called “Original Washington” or “Little Washington” to distinguish it from Washington, D.C. Established in 1776 on land donated by Col. James Bonner, Washington is the first city named after George Washington, the first United States president.

Washington has many historical buildings, some from colonial times. The North Carolina Estuarium has more than 200 scientific exhibits along the Pamlico River that includes a ¾-mile boardwalk. The waterfront area is beautiful and had plenty of boats parked in the dock areas.

The courthouse was built about 1786 and was originally 42 feet by 42 feet but expanded later. It is one of the oldest public buildings in N.C.

The 1913 Turnage Theatre has been renovated from a vaudeville/movie theater to a center for performing arts. A cannonball from Union Army guns during an attack on Washington is displayed in an attorney’s office downtown. Dominique Wilkins, NBA Hall of Famer, who was called the “Human Highlight Film” for his thunderous dunks in the NBA, is from Washington. The Bank of Washington, built in 1852, is still in use but I don’t think it’s still a bank. Washington was seized by Union troops in March 1862 and Confederate efforts to recapture it failed. The Union troops withdrew in April 1864. The First Presbyterian Church was built in 1823, rebuilt in 1871 and restored in 1954.

My next county seat was Bayboro. Bayboro is the county seat of Pamlico County, located at the headwaters of the Bay River. Bayboro is a small residential, agricultural, fishing and commercial community. Bayboro was named for the Bay River and settled long before it was incorporated in 1881. It is the oldest incorporated town in the county and was the first to have town water. Its location is based on waterway commerce and commercial fishing associated with the town’s Bay River Harbor during colonial times. During that time, waterway traffic was the main source of moving goods and commerce to Pamlico County. The courthouse did not appear to be historic.

I drove on to New Bern, county seat of Craven County. New Bern was founded in October 1710 by Swiss colonists who named their settlement after Bern, Switzerland where many of them came from. New Bern is the second-oldest European settled colonial town in North Carolina, after Bath. It served as the capital of North Carolina from 1770 to 1792. After the Revolutionary War, New Bern became wealthy and quickly developed a rich cultural life. When Raleigh was named the state capital, New Bern rebuilt its economy by expanding trade routes to the Caribbean and New England. James Davis was the first printer and first postmaster of the colony of North Carolina and owner of the North-Carolina Gazette, North Carolina colony’s first newspaper.

In 1862, Union forces captured New Bern and held it until after the end of the war. Over 10,000 slaves escaped under the protection of the army. By 1890, New Bern had become one of the largest lumber producers in the south, but that business gradually dried up.

New Bern has an especially interesting fire department history. The manned fire service began in 1845. It was taken over by Union soldiers during their Civil War occupation, and then service moved on to steam fire trucks and then motorized trucks in 1914. All this can be seen in a fantastic fire museum.

Late in the afternoon, I tried to get some pictures of Tryon Palace, used by the British governors from 1770-1775. It was seized by American patriots early in the Revolutionary War and accidentally burned in 1792. The palace has been restored for tours, but the gates were closed for the day.

I made my last stop of the day in Trenton, the county seat of Jones County, and another very small town with little information available. Jones County is the fourth least populous county in N.C. The Jones County courthouse was built in 1939. The economy has been based on lumber and tobacco. Late in the afternoon, I found a historic church under construction and a historic water powered mill.

At the end of the day, I had completed 85 county seats and 9.3 miles on my feet. See you soon with more eastern counties!

By David Freeze

Leftover from my last trip as we ran out of print space was Lillington, county seat of Harnett County. A post office called Lillington has been in operation since 1874. The town was originally called Harnett Court House but was then chartered by the State of North Carolina on March 4, 1903. Lillington is named for John Alexander Lillington who was an officer from North Carolina in the American Revolutionary War, fighting in the Battle of Moore’s Creek Bridge in 1776 and serving as brigadier general in the state militia. Lillington is on the Cape Fear River and has a new Harnett County Courthouse. Campbell University is adjacent to the town.

My first stop on July 3 was Raeford, county seat of Hoke County, N.C.’s 99th county. Raeford was granted a U.S. Post Office on Aug. 11, 1885, when it was still in Cumberland County. There were no paved roads, and the economy was strictly based on cotton. The men who operated the turpentine distillery and general store wanted the post office in their store for the convenience of the townspeople. In order to choose a name for the post office, they took a syllable from each of their names. One being John McRae, and one being A.A. Williford, and the town name became “Raeford.” The only high school in the county became the Raeford Institute. Raeford was originally settled on the site of an old cotton field with those few families who had settled there making up the population in 1898. In 1899, the Aberdeen & Rockfish Railroad was extended to the present-day Raeford. When the first train came down the track, teachers let the children from the institute walk through the woods to meet the train.

Raeford, chartered in 1901, was composed almost exclusively of people who had moved to the community in the interest of their children obtaining a better education. Today’s Raeford has the 1912 Hoke County Courthouse and is located about 22 miles from Fort Liberty (Bragg).

My next stop was Fayetteville, county seat of Cumberland County. In 1783, Cross Creek and Campbellton joined together and the new town was incorporated as Fayetteville in honor of Gilbert du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette, the French military hero who aided the American forces during the Revolutionary War. Fayetteville was the first city to be named in his honor in the United States. Lafayette visited the city on March 4 and 5, 1825, during his tour of the United States.

After a devastating downtown fire in 1831 that consumed 600 buildings, the city built a Market House. The new building had a covered area under which business could be conducted since every store in Fayetteville had been destroyed in the fire. Completed in 1832, the Market House became both the town’s and county’s administrative building until other buildings could be replaced.

General Sherman’s Union Army entered Fayetteville on March 11, 1865, where a skirmish occurred near the Market House. On the site of Ft. Liberty, the last all-cavalry battle of the war occurred at Monroe’s Crossing. Sherman’s army caused major destruction to the city.

Since the 1960s, Fayetteville has been one of the fastest growing cities in the state. Fort Liberty, with about 57,000 soldiers and 14,000 support personnel, provides a major boost to the local economy.

The downtown portion of Fayetteville was really cool with historic buildings, the train depot, restaurants and shops. The modern Cumberland County Courthouse is just a block away from the previous one, built in 1926. The 1923 Hotel Prince Charles, after a long list of owners, has recently reopened as The Residences at the Prince Charles with two original rooms combined into one apartment. Parking was easy with lots of marked places on the street. So easy that I got my first parking ticket, one that I will appeal. Not a meter or sign in sight and I only was gone from my truck for 50 minutes.

Lumberton, county seat of Robeson County, was my next stop. Located in southern North Carolina’s Inner Banks region, Lumberton is on the Lumber River and is named for it. It was founded in 1787 by John Willis, an officer in the American Revolution who owned land nearby. Developed as a shipping point for lumber used by the Navy, logs were guided downriver to Georgetown, S.C.

Lumberton was formally created by an act of the North Carolina General Assembly on Nov. 3, 1788, which granted the town a charter and the power to levy taxes. Most of the town’s growth happened after World War II.

Robeson County was impacted by Hurricanes Matthew in 2016 and Florence in 2018, which broke the flooding record. As a result of extensive damage to homes, entire streets in south and west Lumberton were left abandoned.

Luther Britt Park has 143 acres for outdoor recreation and Lumberton has the annual Lumbee Indian Homecoming each July. The Robeson County Courthouse is modern, built in 1987.

Then on to Elizabethtown, county seat of Bladen County. Established in 1773, the town is currently celebrating its 250th year with several events. No one is sure of the town’s namesake. The most famous resident is Lt. Col. Brown, a former NASA astronaut and retired United States Air Force colonel. He participated in six space missions and the airport, the Curtis L. Brown Jr. Field Airport, is named in his honor.

The Battle of Elizabethtown took place in town during the Revolutionary War on Sept. 29, 1781, when a small force of about 60 patriots defeated roughly 300 Tories. The Tory Hole Battleground has a marker denoting the battle.

While I was there, rain threatened but never got serious. A large townwide sidewalk sale was in progress and drew plenty of pedestrian traffic. I stopped for a couple of pastries at “Burney’s Sweets and More” before leaving this friendly town. Five more counties done for a total of 79, with 21 to go. See you next week!

By David Freeze

I visited Kinston early on Sunday morning, June 25. Kinston is a totally flat town with two high-rise apartment buildings used for affordable housing and lots of empty store fronts. The county seat of Lenoir County, Kinston was created by the North Carolina General Assembly in December 1762 as “Kingston,” in honor of King George III in England. Richard Caswell, who made his home locally and served as the first governor of the state of North Carolina from 1776 to 1780, was later honored when the name changed to Caswell in 1833. It was renamed Kinston the following year.

During the Civil War, Kinston was prominent in several ways. Factories made shoes and a bakery made hardtack for the Confederate armies, while two training camps were established locally. Most notably, the Battle of Wyse Creek was held close by in March 1865. As part of the battle, the Confederates destroyed their own gunboat, the CSS Neuse, in the river. For about 100 years, the ship remained in the river, until the remaining parts were removed and placed in a new museum. A fantastic replica ship is now on display. I found the gate open and got some great pictures.

Horse-drawn carriages, tobacco, cotton and lumber have been major economic drivers. The Neuse River flooded portions of the city in 1996 and 1999 from Hurricanes Fran and Floyd. The Lenoir County Courthouse was built in 1939. Kinston’s combination Fire Station No. 1 and City Hall was built in 1895, now housing a museum. A historical marker commemorates the Birth of Funk with James Brown’s band in the 1960s.

Duplin County’s seat is Kenansville, first settled in 1735 by Northern Ireland immigrants and called “Golden Grove.” Incorporated in 1852, it was renamed Kenansville after James Kenan, an early planter, soldier and N.C. Senate member, whose home is now a museum called Liberty Hall Plantation.

Kenansville is very small but includes a hospital, several beautiful older homes and a Civil War era church, Kenansville Baptist Church, built in 1858. The huge and well-kept Duplin County Courthouse was built in 1911.

The next county seat was Clinton of Sampson County. First settlers came to Clinton, called Clinton Courthouse then but changed to Clinton after another town of the same name folded. Sampson is the largest county by land mass in North Carolina. Clinton was named after Richard Clinton, an early resident who became a Revolutionary War hero and then later had extensive governmental service. Another famous early resident was Micajah Autry, who fought and died with Davy Crockett at the Alamo in Texas. Clinton was incorporated in 1822. The Sampson County Courthouse was built in 1939. Clinton has an old depot still used as a restaurant and the old movie theater is now the Sampson Community Theatre.

My next stop was at Goldsboro, home of Seymour Johnson Air Force Base and county seat of Wayne County. Nearly every store in a revitalized and interesting downtown was open and most of the parking spaces were taken.

First named “Goldsborough’s Junction” after Major Matthew T. Goldsborough, an engineer with the railroad line, before the name was shortened simply to Goldsborough. In 1847, the town was incorporated and became the new Wayne County seat following a vote of the citizens. Local legend has it that Goldsborough supporters put moonshine in the town’s well to encourage people to vote for Goldsborough.

Due to its importance as a railroad hub, several major Civil War battles were fought in this area. General Sherman’s Union force of 100,000 soldiers targeted Goldsboro as the main N.C. conquest on its way north in 1865. His force spent about three weeks in the area.

Seymore Johnson Army Air Force base opened in 1942 and was then renamed in 1947 when the Air Force became a separate service. Andy Griffith taught high school classes here in English and drama. A pharmacy exists in what was Goldsboro’s first hospital in 1896, and the Wayne County Courthouse was built in 1914. Two high rise hotels remain, one of them now luxury apartments in “The View, at Wayne National,” a former bank building.

Smithfield, the county seat of Johnston County, was the next stop. Founded near Smith’s Ferry on the Neuse River, Smithfield was Johnston County’s first town and second county seat. The county courthouse was moved from Hinton’s Quarter to Smithfield in 1771. The settlement was first known as Johnston County Court House, then incorporated as Smithfield in 1777. The third North Carolina state legislature met in Smithfield in 1779 and 1780.

Ava Gardner was the most famous resident, although she was actually from Grabtown, an unincorporated community next door. Gardner was a major film actress from 1941 until the mid-1980s. The Ava Gardner Museum is a popular attraction in the downtown area. The Johnston County Courthouse was built in 1920-21. U.S. Marine Dan Bullock is honored as the youngest soldier killed in Vietnam, at age 15.

I stopped briefly at the Neuse Little Theatre and talked with Patsy Castellano and Gregory Hill who were about to begin their last performance of Frozen. Greg asked me if I wanted to see the inside of the rustic theatre. The temperature in the theatre more resembled the play’s title. The Buffalo Creek Greenway is just behind the theatre.

Also on the greenway was the 1854 William Hastings house, which served as the pre-battle command office for Confederate Generals Joseph E. Johnston and Braxton Bragg. Together in these rooms, they planned to engage General Sherman near Bentonville in March 1865. Johnston’s troops were outnumbered 4 to 1. After defeat, his troops retreated on March 21, 1865. This would be the last major Confederate offensive of the Civil War, which ended three weeks later with Lee’s surrender in Appomattox on April 9. The Hastings house was moved twice before reaching its current location.

With 74 counties visited, I have 26 remaining. These five locations totaled 8.07 miles on foot. See you back here soon as I head east again!

By David Freeze

Leftover from a previous segment of county touring was Tarboro. On the way home from several eastern coastal plain counties, I stopped since it was close to the interstate. Tarrburg, then Tarrborough finally became Tarboro in 1760 when chartered by British colonists. On the banks of the Tar River, the town is the ninth oldest in the state and was a thriving trade center until the Civil War, when more than half of the population was enslaved. Tarboro became the county seat of Edgecombe County in 1764. George Washington slept here in 1791.

A long series of 19th century storefronts and about 300 historic residences can be seen in town, on the way to the 15-acre Town Common. The Town Common originally surrounded the town and is the second-oldest legislated town common in the country. Initially the location for common grazing of livestock, community gatherings and military drills, the Town Common is the only remaining original common on the east coast besides the one in Boston, Massachusetts. I missed N.C.’s last remaining cotton press located there too. The Edgecombe County Courthouse was completed in 1965, but in a style called Modern Colonial Revival that makes it look old. More recently, Tarboro experienced severe flooding from Hurricane Floyd in 1999 and Hurricane Matthew in 2016.

Next stop was Hillsborough, the county seat of Orange County. On the Eno River, the town was built on the site of Native American settlements that existed from 1000-1710. I found a booming farmer’s market and the Riverwalk on the Eno near the oldest part of town. Founded in 1754, it was not until 1766 that the town was named Hillsborough, after Wills Hill, then the Earl of Hillsborough, the British secretary of state for the colonies, and a relative of royal Governor William Tryon. The Regulator Movement increased tension as local residents and British colonial officials clashed when some of those locals took up arms protesting taxes and seizure of land, resulting in the loss of six lives by hanging.

The town was also the site of the first North Carolina ratifying convention, which met July 21-Aug. 2, 1788, to deliberate and determine whether or not to ratify the Constitution recommended to the states by the Constitutional Convention held in Philadelphia the previous summer. The meeting was held at the Hillsborough Presbyterian Church. A later building, constructed in 1816, still stands. Declaration of Independence signer William Hooper was buried at the same church but his remains were moved later. There are more than 100 surviving late 18th century and 19th century homes and the town, once known as the “capital of the back country”, still looks much the same as it did then. The historic Orange County Courthouse was built in 1844 and has a clock presented to the town by English officials. The inns and several of the oldest homes have the modern sidewalk next to the front steps.

I made the short drive to Snow Hill, county seat of Greene County. Snow Hill was chartered in 1828 and was originally a major trading depot on Contentnea Creek. At the time, Contentnea Creek was a main Wilson-to-New Bern trading artery, connecting with the Neuse River at Kinston. The name Snow Hill is thought to refer to the white sand banks of Contentnea Creek.

Snow Hill, considered the smallest town to ever do so, fielded a professional Class D baseball team called the Billies from 1937-1941. The Greene County Courthouse was built in 1935. Beautiful historic homes dominate the quiet streets. Only a handful of retail businesses exist today.

Next up was Greenville, county seat of Pitt County, founded in 1771 as “Martinsborough,” named after the Royal Governor Josiah Martin. In 1774 the town was moved to its present location on the south bank of the Tar River, three miles west of its original site. In 1786, the name was changed to Greenesville in honor of General Nathanael Greene, the American Revolutionary War hero. It was later shortened to Greenville.

Greenville had several steamboat lines plying the Tar River with passengers and goods by the 1860s. Cotton and eventually tobacco fueled the local economy. The Pitt County Courthouse was built in 1910. In 1999, Hurricane Floyd dropped 17 inches of rain, mostly overnight, and caused the Tar River to flood at a 500-year level. Major flooding and damage occurred in town. In early 2020, the city council authorized the purchase of approximately 163 acres of land north of the Tar River for the development of an adventure park focusing on outdoor recreational activities such as running, hiking, biking and camping along with lake-based and river recreation. Greenville features a greenway system of more than nine miles that connects the medical and educational community with the Uptown District and Tar River. East Carolina University is the fourth largest university in the UNC system.

The Greenville historic district had some real gems. I talked with Jeremy Law, chef and owner, at the SOCO restaurant. He said the house, built about 1895, was moved twice and held together well. The Fleming house next door, built in 1901, was also spectacular. George Washington also visited Greenville in 1791. The Proctor Hotel, built about 1912 with an “air of refinement,” had undergone renovation in 2004. The downtown area was not busy on a Friday evening, but just a short walk away several restaurants were very busy in what is called Uptown Greenville.

With this writing, we’re now at 69 county seats visited with 31 more to go. Most of the counties remaining are well east of Rowan. And speaking of Rowan, I’ll do it last. Back soon with more!