David Freeze

By David Freeze

I am still working to get caught up with various things following my bike ride and we’ll spend a few minutes on them in this column. It is great to be home, another wonderful cycling adventure complete and the book underway.

Last Saturday, Catawba College Cross Country hosted the Fleet Invitational at Salisbury Community Park. Both the Catawba men’s and women’s teams had dominating performances with the top five women and top 10 men leading the field. The women were led by Madi Clay from Morganton who posted 18 minutes and 24.8 seconds for the 5K as the top five women garnered a perfect score of 15. Lowest scores win in cross country.

The men took the top 10 spots, all within 52 seconds. Sophomore Tanner Smith took first place in the 8K with a time of 26 minutes, 28.4 seconds. The Catawba men also had a perfect score of 15 on the very pleasant, sunny morning.

Jason Bryan, Catawba cross country coach, said, “We are very excited about both the men’s and women’s teams this year and the talent that this team has. We have never had the depth on both sides like we have this season and it showed at our first meet. We have a lot of work still to do in order to reach our team goals, but these students are ready to get after it each week and continue to build this program into one of the best in the Southeast! Our women’s team will have to contend with some very talented programs within our conference and region that have been good for a while. In order to have a chance to win against those teams, we will need to stay healthy and hungry. On the men’s side, we have one of the best teams in the country in our conference in Wingate (National Runner-up last season). In order to continue to build the men’s team into a perennial NCAA qualifier, the culture of team first will be most important. We hope to get both teams to the NCAA Championship meet in Joplin, Missouri, on Nov. 18 — and have fun along the way!”

One of the most interesting events in Rowan County is coming up next weekend. The Race to the River 5K will take off from Spencer at 2 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 16, and run down Salisbury Avenue to the Yadkin River Park and the Wilcox Bridge. The 5K proceeds go to Rowan Creek Week. In addition, there is quality entertainment scheduled at the new Yadkin Park after the race. The new 5K course is very fast, with the last two miles a steady downhill to the river. All abilities of runners and walkers are encouraged to participate, with great shirts, awards and refreshments at the completion. There is also a fun run for kids, 12 and under.

Creek Week is a week-long celebration of local waters throughout North Carolina. This year, Rowan Creek Week will be Sept. 16-23. In conjunction with multiple organizations and local municipal departments, Creek Week offers recreational, educational, and volunteer opportunities to allow everyone to enjoy and contribute to healthy waters in our area.

Join the Pedal Factory for a bike ride from downtown Salisbury to Spencer (Leg 1) and/or from Spencer to the Yadkin River Park (Leg 2). Leg 1 departs The Pedal Factory bike shop (311 E Council St., Salisbury) at 2 p.m. Leg 2 departs Spencer Town Hall (460 S. Salisbury Avenue, Spencer) in Park Plaza at 2:45 p.m. Participants must BYO bikes and helmets, or rentals are available. Advance signup is required. For more information, contact the Pedal Factory at 704-870-7145.

Join Row Co River Adventures for a guided group sunset paddle along the Yadkin River. The group will meet and launch at the York Hill Boat Access at Yadkin River Park at 6 p.m. The approximate trip is a one-hour, easy paddle. Row Co River Adventures will be providing kayak rentals for the event. Participants can rent a single or double kayak for a nominal fee. Have your own equipment? Join us at no cost. Advance signup is required. To book a rental please contact Nicky at Row Co River Adventures at 704-433-1066 or email rowco@rowcoriveradventures.com.

To keep our waterways clean, the Town of Spencer, Spencer Police Department, Rowan County Soil and Water Conservation District, and Rowan County Public Health will be hosting a Medication Take-Back event for citizens to dispose of unused or expired medications from 1-2:30 p.m. at Spencer Town Hall (460 South Salisbury Avenue, Spencer). The 5K and fun run registration will be held at the same location from 1:30-2:45 p.m.

Look for more information on the Race to the River and other upcoming events at www.salisburyrowanrunners.org or call 704-310-6741.

By David Freeze

I am just back from my bike ride and eager to get rolling with our running and racing opportunities for the late summer and fall. There are two new races and two more with new twists, plus two of our biggest that are back in place.

First is a low key and non-competitive but still very popular event. The Ralph Baker’s Shoes and Chick-Fil-A Prediction Run 5K is more about fun and a chance to win prices, eat well and just plain have a good time. The event is being held at City Park, starting at 8 a.m. on Aug. 26. SRR members are free and anyone else can register for $30, the cost of an annual membership. A prediction run means that all participants predict a time to cover 3.1 miles, all without wearing a watch, carrying a phone or any other timing device. The slowest runner or walker are usually more likely to win with the closest prediction time, largely because they seem to be more consistent.

Next up is one of the new races, The Robert Stephen Gilmore Labor of Love 5K presented by the Javon Hargrave Foundation. The 5K will be held at Knox Middle School at 9 a.m., likely still on the long-time course. All proceeds go to support Stephen’s Purpose. The 3.1-mile race in honor of Robert Stephen Gilmore will raise monies to benefit children who may experience cancer or developmental delays. This race will benefit children and families in need in our community.

On Sept. 9, the action is at the Run for the Word 5K and Fun Run hosted by Trinity Lutheran Church in Landis. The course is likely the flattest in the county and the town of Landis supports course safety throughout the event. All proceeds go to the South Rowan Bible Teachers Association for the costs of Bible teachers at Carson and South Rowan high schools, Corriher-Lipe and China Grove middle schools with the possible addition soon of Southeast Middle School.

Spencer’s Race to the River 5K and Fun Run will leave the fire department at 2 p.m. and race north straight to the Wil-Cox Bridge and Yadkin River. The very hilly first mile from last year has been changed to a straight shot down Salisbury Avenue to the river, at least two-thirds of the course on a fast downhill. The town of Spencer will showcase its energetic and growing Parks program. Non-competitive cycling and kayak events are also involved. Awards, three deep this year, and entertainment will be held at the new Yadkin River Park Trailhead. The event benefits Rowan Creek Week and starts at 2 p.m.

GNC is presenting the Dollars for Donuts 5K and Fun Run on Oct. 7 to benefit the Salisbury Police Department Foundation with the intent of providing various means of support to the officers and associated personnel. The Police Department Foundation is not funded by the city of Salisbury. The race will be headquartered at the GNC store, and the course has not been finalized but will be in close proximity to the store. This is another new event.

Back again is the Clean Water 5K and Fun Run at Grace Lutheran Church. Globally, 1.8 billion people, about one out of every four people, drink from contaminated water sources. Unsafe water leads to illnesses that claim the lives of 840,000 people each year, almost half of whom are children under the age of five. What’s more, women and children spend hours each day collecting water. This keeps them from school, work, education and time with family. All proceeds from the race will benefit the Evangelical Lutheran Church in America (ELCA) Global Water Ministry.

The Girls on the Run of the Greater Piedmont 5K follows the next day, Nov. 12, as a celebration event at Salisbury Community Park at 2 p.m. The is the largest fall event, with approximately 800 GOTR graduates and a running buddy for most of them. Community runners can register separately.

And finally, Salisbury’s largest competitive 5K, and a Salisbury holiday tradition, will be held on Thanksgiving morning at 8:30 a.m. at The Forum. All proceeds go to Prevent Child Abuse Rowan.

Look for these events and more at www.salisburyrowanrunners.org and www.runsignup.com.

By David Freeze

My first stop on July 8 was Jacksonville, home of Camp Lejeune and the New River Air Station of the U.S. Marines. Its population is listed as the youngest in the nation with an average age of 22.8 because of the large military presence.

In 1752, a devastating hurricane destroyed the county seat of Johnston, and Wantlands Ferry, located further up the New River, at the present site of Jacksonville was chosen as the site of the new county courthouse. The first court was held there in July 1757. The area, briefly known as Onslow Courthouse, was incorporated and renamed Jacksonville in honor of former U.S. President Andrew Jackson in 1842. Jacksonville was briefly captured and occupied during the Civil War in November 1862 by a Union Army raiding party.

Agricultural and naval products, (pine oil, turpentine and resin) along with lumber could be shipped along the New River and were the mainstays of the economy during this time. Jacksonville and Onslow County got a big boost in 1941 when a Marine Corps base for amphibious training was established which later became Camp Lejeune.

Established in 1709, Beaufort is located on Beaufort Inlet, a channel leading south to the Atlantic Ocean. The third oldest town in the state and seat of Carteret County, Beaufort has lots of visitor traffic during the warmer months and it was booming when I was there on a Saturday morning.

Beaufort was first known as Fishtown because the fishing industry has always been an important part of the county’s history. Beaufort was later named for Henry Somerset, British Duke of Beaufort.

Originally a fishing village and a safe harbor since the late 1600s, about 150 of the restored historic homes bear plaques showing names of the earliest known owners and dates of original construction. Some of the historic towns do none of this and it’s impossible to tell the age of the homes.

Fishing, whaling, the production of lumber and naval stores, shipbuilding, and farming were the chief economic activities. Though Beaufort had the safest and most navigable harbor of any of the ports of North Carolina, extensive commercial development hasn’t happened. Now, Beaufort’s economy depends heavily on tourism. An entire 12-block area is on the National Register of Historic Places. The waterfront is beautiful and multiple tours are available.

The Carteret County Courthouse, completed in 1907, was the centerpiece for a sprawling vendor festival where I bought a huge egg, cheese, potato and black bean burrito.

Burgaw is the county seat of Pender County and is a railroad town that came to be when the Wilmington and Raleigh Railroad Company routed its tracks in 1836 across Burgaw Creek, where a small cross-roads trading post already existed. When completed in 1840, this railroad line was the longest in the world at 161½ miles.

In January 1854, the spot on the rails was called Burgaw Depot after the small trading post had been Cypress Grove. The depot is the oldest in the state circa 1850 and is part of the North Carolina Civil War Trail, one of my favorite signs.

During the Civil War, the railroad carried fresh troops to the battlefields and brought back the sick and wounded. Military supplies came from the port of Wilmington to the fighting fronts and kept the depot very busy. Confederate generals and their troops used the depot for weeks after the loss of Ft. Fisher and Wilmington. The railroad and its depots fell to the Union forces on Feb. 22, 1865. The depot warehouse still bears the charred scars of a Union cavalry attack in 1863. In 1865, it also became the holding site for at least 6,000 prisoners of war for over a week in February 1865 while a massive prisoner exchange was negotiated in Richmond and Washington, D.C. The depot was a vital communications center with so many things going on.

On Feb. 6, 1876, the railroad deeded a plot of land to Pender County for the establishment of the town and for the new courthouse. Burgaw was incorporated on Dec. 8, 1879. The current courthouse, built in 1936, is the centerpiece of the town.

Next came Wilmington, county seat of New Hanover County and one of my favorite stops. In September 1732, a community was founded on land owned by John Watson on the Cape Fear River. The settlement was called New Carthage, then New Liverpool, New Town and Newton. Governor Gabriel Johnston established his government there for the North Carolina colony. In 1739 or 1740, the town was incorporated with a new name, Wilmington, in honor of Spencer Compton, British Earl of Wilmington.

Naval stores and lumber fueled the economy, but residents began to push back against the Stamp Act, a British tax on shipping. Various riots and other trouble eventually forced the repeal of the tax, but unrest caused the state capital’s move to New Bern.

During the Civil War, Wilmington’s port was the major base for Confederate and privately owned blockade runners, which delivered badly needed supplies from England. The Union mounted a blockade to reduce the goods received by the South. The city was captured by Union forces in the Battle of Wilmington in February 1865, about one month after the fall of Fort Fisher had closed the port. As nearly all the military action took place some distance from the city, numerous antebellum houses and other buildings survived the war years.

Wilmington’s was called Hollywood East during the 1980s and 1990s because many movies and TV shows were filmed here. The Riverwalk is first class, made even better by the USS North Carolina Battleship.

Bolivia was my last stop, county seat of Brunswick. One of the smallest county seats in the state, it has a few small businesses, a school and a modern government complex. The town was incorporated in 1911 and named after Bolivia, South America.

That’s 90 county seats visited. The final 10 will come sometime this fall. I netted 7.81 miles today. See you soon with more, including Rowan. Thanks for following this series!

By David Freeze

Whiteville was my last stop on July 3, probably the hottest day of my statewide challenge so far. Whiteville is the county seat of Columbus County. Whiteville is centered around the old courthouse, built in 1914-1915 and currently undergoing a major remodeling.

Columbus County was created in 1808. In 1810, a community was planned on land owned by James B. White and originally called White’s Crossing. A post office called Whiteville started in 1821 and the town was incorporated in 1832. The Union army sacked the town late in the Civil War. Whiteville hosts the Pecan Harvest Festival annually. Vineland Station, the town’s depot built in 1903 and one of the state’s first brick depots, serves as Whiteville’s Civic Center. Several old churches and a bank building caught my eye, as did some historic houses within a couple blocks of the courthouse.

Nashville, county seat of Nash County was first called Nash Court House and then became Nashville in 1780 and got a post office in 1805. Nashville features many historic homes. The town and its county were named for Francis Nash, who was mortally wounded at the Battle of Germantown, Pennsylvania while in command of N.C. troops during the Revolutionary War. The first courthouse was completed in 1778 and a historical marker denotes the ghost of the pastor convicted for murder who still inhabits it. The next Nash County courthouse was built in 1921 and a newer one is now in use. Nashville hosts the Blooming Festival each spring and Gov. Roy Cooper was born here.

Next up was the town of Washington, county seat of Beaufort County. I had heard of it for years but had never stopped in. Washington is located on the northern bank of the Pamlico River. It is commonly called “Original Washington” or “Little Washington” to distinguish it from Washington, D.C. Established in 1776 on land donated by Col. James Bonner, Washington is the first city named after George Washington, the first United States president.

Washington has many historical buildings, some from colonial times. The North Carolina Estuarium has more than 200 scientific exhibits along the Pamlico River that includes a ¾-mile boardwalk. The waterfront area is beautiful and had plenty of boats parked in the dock areas.

The courthouse was built about 1786 and was originally 42 feet by 42 feet but expanded later. It is one of the oldest public buildings in N.C.

The 1913 Turnage Theatre has been renovated from a vaudeville/movie theater to a center for performing arts. A cannonball from Union Army guns during an attack on Washington is displayed in an attorney’s office downtown. Dominique Wilkins, NBA Hall of Famer, who was called the “Human Highlight Film” for his thunderous dunks in the NBA, is from Washington. The Bank of Washington, built in 1852, is still in use but I don’t think it’s still a bank. Washington was seized by Union troops in March 1862 and Confederate efforts to recapture it failed. The Union troops withdrew in April 1864. The First Presbyterian Church was built in 1823, rebuilt in 1871 and restored in 1954.

My next county seat was Bayboro. Bayboro is the county seat of Pamlico County, located at the headwaters of the Bay River. Bayboro is a small residential, agricultural, fishing and commercial community. Bayboro was named for the Bay River and settled long before it was incorporated in 1881. It is the oldest incorporated town in the county and was the first to have town water. Its location is based on waterway commerce and commercial fishing associated with the town’s Bay River Harbor during colonial times. During that time, waterway traffic was the main source of moving goods and commerce to Pamlico County. The courthouse did not appear to be historic.

I drove on to New Bern, county seat of Craven County. New Bern was founded in October 1710 by Swiss colonists who named their settlement after Bern, Switzerland where many of them came from. New Bern is the second-oldest European settled colonial town in North Carolina, after Bath. It served as the capital of North Carolina from 1770 to 1792. After the Revolutionary War, New Bern became wealthy and quickly developed a rich cultural life. When Raleigh was named the state capital, New Bern rebuilt its economy by expanding trade routes to the Caribbean and New England. James Davis was the first printer and first postmaster of the colony of North Carolina and owner of the North-Carolina Gazette, North Carolina colony’s first newspaper.

In 1862, Union forces captured New Bern and held it until after the end of the war. Over 10,000 slaves escaped under the protection of the army. By 1890, New Bern had become one of the largest lumber producers in the south, but that business gradually dried up.

New Bern has an especially interesting fire department history. The manned fire service began in 1845. It was taken over by Union soldiers during their Civil War occupation, and then service moved on to steam fire trucks and then motorized trucks in 1914. All this can be seen in a fantastic fire museum.

Late in the afternoon, I tried to get some pictures of Tryon Palace, used by the British governors from 1770-1775. It was seized by American patriots early in the Revolutionary War and accidentally burned in 1792. The palace has been restored for tours, but the gates were closed for the day.

I made my last stop of the day in Trenton, the county seat of Jones County, and another very small town with little information available. Jones County is the fourth least populous county in N.C. The Jones County courthouse was built in 1939. The economy has been based on lumber and tobacco. Late in the afternoon, I found a historic church under construction and a historic water powered mill.

At the end of the day, I had completed 85 county seats and 9.3 miles on my feet. See you soon with more eastern counties!

By David Freeze

Leftover from my last trip as we ran out of print space was Lillington, county seat of Harnett County. A post office called Lillington has been in operation since 1874. The town was originally called Harnett Court House but was then chartered by the State of North Carolina on March 4, 1903. Lillington is named for John Alexander Lillington who was an officer from North Carolina in the American Revolutionary War, fighting in the Battle of Moore’s Creek Bridge in 1776 and serving as brigadier general in the state militia. Lillington is on the Cape Fear River and has a new Harnett County Courthouse. Campbell University is adjacent to the town.

My first stop on July 3 was Raeford, county seat of Hoke County, N.C.’s 99th county. Raeford was granted a U.S. Post Office on Aug. 11, 1885, when it was still in Cumberland County. There were no paved roads, and the economy was strictly based on cotton. The men who operated the turpentine distillery and general store wanted the post office in their store for the convenience of the townspeople. In order to choose a name for the post office, they took a syllable from each of their names. One being John McRae, and one being A.A. Williford, and the town name became “Raeford.” The only high school in the county became the Raeford Institute. Raeford was originally settled on the site of an old cotton field with those few families who had settled there making up the population in 1898. In 1899, the Aberdeen & Rockfish Railroad was extended to the present-day Raeford. When the first train came down the track, teachers let the children from the institute walk through the woods to meet the train.

Raeford, chartered in 1901, was composed almost exclusively of people who had moved to the community in the interest of their children obtaining a better education. Today’s Raeford has the 1912 Hoke County Courthouse and is located about 22 miles from Fort Liberty (Bragg).

My next stop was Fayetteville, county seat of Cumberland County. In 1783, Cross Creek and Campbellton joined together and the new town was incorporated as Fayetteville in honor of Gilbert du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette, the French military hero who aided the American forces during the Revolutionary War. Fayetteville was the first city to be named in his honor in the United States. Lafayette visited the city on March 4 and 5, 1825, during his tour of the United States.

After a devastating downtown fire in 1831 that consumed 600 buildings, the city built a Market House. The new building had a covered area under which business could be conducted since every store in Fayetteville had been destroyed in the fire. Completed in 1832, the Market House became both the town’s and county’s administrative building until other buildings could be replaced.

General Sherman’s Union Army entered Fayetteville on March 11, 1865, where a skirmish occurred near the Market House. On the site of Ft. Liberty, the last all-cavalry battle of the war occurred at Monroe’s Crossing. Sherman’s army caused major destruction to the city.

Since the 1960s, Fayetteville has been one of the fastest growing cities in the state. Fort Liberty, with about 57,000 soldiers and 14,000 support personnel, provides a major boost to the local economy.

The downtown portion of Fayetteville was really cool with historic buildings, the train depot, restaurants and shops. The modern Cumberland County Courthouse is just a block away from the previous one, built in 1926. The 1923 Hotel Prince Charles, after a long list of owners, has recently reopened as The Residences at the Prince Charles with two original rooms combined into one apartment. Parking was easy with lots of marked places on the street. So easy that I got my first parking ticket, one that I will appeal. Not a meter or sign in sight and I only was gone from my truck for 50 minutes.

Lumberton, county seat of Robeson County, was my next stop. Located in southern North Carolina’s Inner Banks region, Lumberton is on the Lumber River and is named for it. It was founded in 1787 by John Willis, an officer in the American Revolution who owned land nearby. Developed as a shipping point for lumber used by the Navy, logs were guided downriver to Georgetown, S.C.

Lumberton was formally created by an act of the North Carolina General Assembly on Nov. 3, 1788, which granted the town a charter and the power to levy taxes. Most of the town’s growth happened after World War II.

Robeson County was impacted by Hurricanes Matthew in 2016 and Florence in 2018, which broke the flooding record. As a result of extensive damage to homes, entire streets in south and west Lumberton were left abandoned.

Luther Britt Park has 143 acres for outdoor recreation and Lumberton has the annual Lumbee Indian Homecoming each July. The Robeson County Courthouse is modern, built in 1987.

Then on to Elizabethtown, county seat of Bladen County. Established in 1773, the town is currently celebrating its 250th year with several events. No one is sure of the town’s namesake. The most famous resident is Lt. Col. Brown, a former NASA astronaut and retired United States Air Force colonel. He participated in six space missions and the airport, the Curtis L. Brown Jr. Field Airport, is named in his honor.

The Battle of Elizabethtown took place in town during the Revolutionary War on Sept. 29, 1781, when a small force of about 60 patriots defeated roughly 300 Tories. The Tory Hole Battleground has a marker denoting the battle.

While I was there, rain threatened but never got serious. A large townwide sidewalk sale was in progress and drew plenty of pedestrian traffic. I stopped for a couple of pastries at “Burney’s Sweets and More” before leaving this friendly town. Five more counties done for a total of 79, with 21 to go. See you next week!

By David Freeze

I visited Kinston early on Sunday morning, June 25. Kinston is a totally flat town with two high-rise apartment buildings used for affordable housing and lots of empty store fronts. The county seat of Lenoir County, Kinston was created by the North Carolina General Assembly in December 1762 as “Kingston,” in honor of King George III in England. Richard Caswell, who made his home locally and served as the first governor of the state of North Carolina from 1776 to 1780, was later honored when the name changed to Caswell in 1833. It was renamed Kinston the following year.

During the Civil War, Kinston was prominent in several ways. Factories made shoes and a bakery made hardtack for the Confederate armies, while two training camps were established locally. Most notably, the Battle of Wyse Creek was held close by in March 1865. As part of the battle, the Confederates destroyed their own gunboat, the CSS Neuse, in the river. For about 100 years, the ship remained in the river, until the remaining parts were removed and placed in a new museum. A fantastic replica ship is now on display. I found the gate open and got some great pictures.

Horse-drawn carriages, tobacco, cotton and lumber have been major economic drivers. The Neuse River flooded portions of the city in 1996 and 1999 from Hurricanes Fran and Floyd. The Lenoir County Courthouse was built in 1939. Kinston’s combination Fire Station No. 1 and City Hall was built in 1895, now housing a museum. A historical marker commemorates the Birth of Funk with James Brown’s band in the 1960s.

Duplin County’s seat is Kenansville, first settled in 1735 by Northern Ireland immigrants and called “Golden Grove.” Incorporated in 1852, it was renamed Kenansville after James Kenan, an early planter, soldier and N.C. Senate member, whose home is now a museum called Liberty Hall Plantation.

Kenansville is very small but includes a hospital, several beautiful older homes and a Civil War era church, Kenansville Baptist Church, built in 1858. The huge and well-kept Duplin County Courthouse was built in 1911.

The next county seat was Clinton of Sampson County. First settlers came to Clinton, called Clinton Courthouse then but changed to Clinton after another town of the same name folded. Sampson is the largest county by land mass in North Carolina. Clinton was named after Richard Clinton, an early resident who became a Revolutionary War hero and then later had extensive governmental service. Another famous early resident was Micajah Autry, who fought and died with Davy Crockett at the Alamo in Texas. Clinton was incorporated in 1822. The Sampson County Courthouse was built in 1939. Clinton has an old depot still used as a restaurant and the old movie theater is now the Sampson Community Theatre.

My next stop was at Goldsboro, home of Seymour Johnson Air Force Base and county seat of Wayne County. Nearly every store in a revitalized and interesting downtown was open and most of the parking spaces were taken.

First named “Goldsborough’s Junction” after Major Matthew T. Goldsborough, an engineer with the railroad line, before the name was shortened simply to Goldsborough. In 1847, the town was incorporated and became the new Wayne County seat following a vote of the citizens. Local legend has it that Goldsborough supporters put moonshine in the town’s well to encourage people to vote for Goldsborough.

Due to its importance as a railroad hub, several major Civil War battles were fought in this area. General Sherman’s Union force of 100,000 soldiers targeted Goldsboro as the main N.C. conquest on its way north in 1865. His force spent about three weeks in the area.

Seymore Johnson Army Air Force base opened in 1942 and was then renamed in 1947 when the Air Force became a separate service. Andy Griffith taught high school classes here in English and drama. A pharmacy exists in what was Goldsboro’s first hospital in 1896, and the Wayne County Courthouse was built in 1914. Two high rise hotels remain, one of them now luxury apartments in “The View, at Wayne National,” a former bank building.

Smithfield, the county seat of Johnston County, was the next stop. Founded near Smith’s Ferry on the Neuse River, Smithfield was Johnston County’s first town and second county seat. The county courthouse was moved from Hinton’s Quarter to Smithfield in 1771. The settlement was first known as Johnston County Court House, then incorporated as Smithfield in 1777. The third North Carolina state legislature met in Smithfield in 1779 and 1780.

Ava Gardner was the most famous resident, although she was actually from Grabtown, an unincorporated community next door. Gardner was a major film actress from 1941 until the mid-1980s. The Ava Gardner Museum is a popular attraction in the downtown area. The Johnston County Courthouse was built in 1920-21. U.S. Marine Dan Bullock is honored as the youngest soldier killed in Vietnam, at age 15.

I stopped briefly at the Neuse Little Theatre and talked with Patsy Castellano and Gregory Hill who were about to begin their last performance of Frozen. Greg asked me if I wanted to see the inside of the rustic theatre. The temperature in the theatre more resembled the play’s title. The Buffalo Creek Greenway is just behind the theatre.

Also on the greenway was the 1854 William Hastings house, which served as the pre-battle command office for Confederate Generals Joseph E. Johnston and Braxton Bragg. Together in these rooms, they planned to engage General Sherman near Bentonville in March 1865. Johnston’s troops were outnumbered 4 to 1. After defeat, his troops retreated on March 21, 1865. This would be the last major Confederate offensive of the Civil War, which ended three weeks later with Lee’s surrender in Appomattox on April 9. The Hastings house was moved twice before reaching its current location.

With 74 counties visited, I have 26 remaining. These five locations totaled 8.07 miles on foot. See you back here soon as I head east again!

By David Freeze

Leftover from a previous segment of county touring was Tarboro. On the way home from several eastern coastal plain counties, I stopped since it was close to the interstate. Tarrburg, then Tarrborough finally became Tarboro in 1760 when chartered by British colonists. On the banks of the Tar River, the town is the ninth oldest in the state and was a thriving trade center until the Civil War, when more than half of the population was enslaved. Tarboro became the county seat of Edgecombe County in 1764. George Washington slept here in 1791.

A long series of 19th century storefronts and about 300 historic residences can be seen in town, on the way to the 15-acre Town Common. The Town Common originally surrounded the town and is the second-oldest legislated town common in the country. Initially the location for common grazing of livestock, community gatherings and military drills, the Town Common is the only remaining original common on the east coast besides the one in Boston, Massachusetts. I missed N.C.’s last remaining cotton press located there too. The Edgecombe County Courthouse was completed in 1965, but in a style called Modern Colonial Revival that makes it look old. More recently, Tarboro experienced severe flooding from Hurricane Floyd in 1999 and Hurricane Matthew in 2016.

Next stop was Hillsborough, the county seat of Orange County. On the Eno River, the town was built on the site of Native American settlements that existed from 1000-1710. I found a booming farmer’s market and the Riverwalk on the Eno near the oldest part of town. Founded in 1754, it was not until 1766 that the town was named Hillsborough, after Wills Hill, then the Earl of Hillsborough, the British secretary of state for the colonies, and a relative of royal Governor William Tryon. The Regulator Movement increased tension as local residents and British colonial officials clashed when some of those locals took up arms protesting taxes and seizure of land, resulting in the loss of six lives by hanging.

The town was also the site of the first North Carolina ratifying convention, which met July 21-Aug. 2, 1788, to deliberate and determine whether or not to ratify the Constitution recommended to the states by the Constitutional Convention held in Philadelphia the previous summer. The meeting was held at the Hillsborough Presbyterian Church. A later building, constructed in 1816, still stands. Declaration of Independence signer William Hooper was buried at the same church but his remains were moved later. There are more than 100 surviving late 18th century and 19th century homes and the town, once known as the “capital of the back country”, still looks much the same as it did then. The historic Orange County Courthouse was built in 1844 and has a clock presented to the town by English officials. The inns and several of the oldest homes have the modern sidewalk next to the front steps.

I made the short drive to Snow Hill, county seat of Greene County. Snow Hill was chartered in 1828 and was originally a major trading depot on Contentnea Creek. At the time, Contentnea Creek was a main Wilson-to-New Bern trading artery, connecting with the Neuse River at Kinston. The name Snow Hill is thought to refer to the white sand banks of Contentnea Creek.

Snow Hill, considered the smallest town to ever do so, fielded a professional Class D baseball team called the Billies from 1937-1941. The Greene County Courthouse was built in 1935. Beautiful historic homes dominate the quiet streets. Only a handful of retail businesses exist today.

Next up was Greenville, county seat of Pitt County, founded in 1771 as “Martinsborough,” named after the Royal Governor Josiah Martin. In 1774 the town was moved to its present location on the south bank of the Tar River, three miles west of its original site. In 1786, the name was changed to Greenesville in honor of General Nathanael Greene, the American Revolutionary War hero. It was later shortened to Greenville.

Greenville had several steamboat lines plying the Tar River with passengers and goods by the 1860s. Cotton and eventually tobacco fueled the local economy. The Pitt County Courthouse was built in 1910. In 1999, Hurricane Floyd dropped 17 inches of rain, mostly overnight, and caused the Tar River to flood at a 500-year level. Major flooding and damage occurred in town. In early 2020, the city council authorized the purchase of approximately 163 acres of land north of the Tar River for the development of an adventure park focusing on outdoor recreational activities such as running, hiking, biking and camping along with lake-based and river recreation. Greenville features a greenway system of more than nine miles that connects the medical and educational community with the Uptown District and Tar River. East Carolina University is the fourth largest university in the UNC system.

The Greenville historic district had some real gems. I talked with Jeremy Law, chef and owner, at the SOCO restaurant. He said the house, built about 1895, was moved twice and held together well. The Fleming house next door, built in 1901, was also spectacular. George Washington also visited Greenville in 1791. The Proctor Hotel, built about 1912 with an “air of refinement,” had undergone renovation in 2004. The downtown area was not busy on a Friday evening, but just a short walk away several restaurants were very busy in what is called Uptown Greenville.

With this writing, we’re now at 69 county seats visited with 31 more to go. Most of the counties remaining are well east of Rowan. And speaking of Rowan, I’ll do it last. Back soon with more!

By David Freeze

On Saturday, June 24, I headed for the two biggest cities left on my list. I wanted to visit Durham and Raleigh while there was little traffic, especially in the governmental areas. I got my way in Durham, county seat of Durham County, as I rolled into the old part of town, where I had never been. Siri nearly always brings me to within sight of the most recent county courthouse and she did it again. Incorporated in 1869 and named for Bartlett Durham who donated the original land, Durham thrived on tobacco and agriculture early. With heavy Civil War activity, segments of both armies passed through the area often and enjoyed the Brightleaf tobacco. The word spread through those armies and demand was high for the more pleasant tobacco and sales boomed for years to come.

Cotton and energy production were other economic drivers. In an area where many of the tobacco warehouses and at least one large cotton mill once thrived, the old town section of Durham is undergoing a massive renovation and reuse of old buildings. As I toured the government area, I found that the old Ford dealership, Johnson Motor Company from 1914, had now been reclaimed for the Housing Authority of Durham. The 17-story Hill Building, completed in 1937, is now a 165-room luxury hotel. A popular bakery has reclaimed most of the former newspaper building. Several major churches dating from the late 1800s and the early 1900s were located close by. Just as in Charlotte, lots of high-rise housing was under construction. The old Durham County Courthouse was completed by 1920.

Raleigh was my next stop, where I found a totally different setting. Traffic was congested as I neared the government center. I realized that the Pride Festival was underway, starting near the capitol building. While most paid to park, I didn’t, after several loops of the area.

Raleigh, county seat of Wake County, is the second most populous city in N.C. and is named after Sir Walter Raleigh, sponsor of Roanoke, the “Lost Colony” in Dare County. Raleigh was incorporated in 1792 and is one of the few cities in the United States that was planned and built specifically as a state capital.

The state capitol building, constructed in 1840, has been undergoing a major renovation. The building housed all the state government affairs until 1888. This is the second major renovation of the historic structure. Copper on the roof and dome are being replaced, the heating and ventilation system is being updated and mortar and stone on the building’s exterior are being repaired. Roof renovation has happened before in 1888 and 1971. The copper roof will start shiny and then take 10-20 years to return to the recognizable green color caused by oxidation. Statues on the capitol grounds include Civil War Governor Zebulon Vance and Presidents George Washington, James K. Polk, Andrew Jackson and Andrew Johnson, who was born in Raleigh.

The Wake County Courthouse is another massive building with 15 stories, constructed between 1968 and 1970. Most interesting to me was a water tower near the capitol building, built of brick in 1887.

After all this government and big city exploration, I was happy to drive to Wilson. From Our State magazine articles, I knew one thing about Wilson, a city park famous for “whirligigs.” I thought I would have to ask for directions to the park but realized it’s by far the most famous thing in town and easily seen. The park is huge, with whirligigs of all sizes, shapes and colors. While they all look small in magazine articles, the 30 displays include some that are 50 feet in the air and almost as long as tractor-trailers while likely as intricate. Vollis Simpson was a WWII Army staff sergeant who began an amazing hobby after the war. He built these things and began to save them around his farm. When Simpson’s health began to fail, the Town of Wilson struck an agreement that would honor the master-fabricator for years to come. On this very warm Saturday afternoon, the park was busy. Food, a play area, a stage and a whirligig museum are part of the park. The N.C. legislature designated Simpson’s “gigs” as the official folk art of the state and they have been displayed across America.

I had visited Wilson briefly on my run across the N.C. in 2018 but I didn’t stay long. Wilson was incorporated in 1849 and named for Mexican War hero General Luis Wilson. I found yet another massive courthouse, built in 1924, and interesting streets lined by historic houses and buildings, including the site of N.C.’s first ABC store. I stopped to take a photo of some of Art Dept.’s screen-printed T-shirts that led to a wonderful encounter. I met Greg Boseman and Coach H. B. Harris. Coach filled me in on what to see, including a remaining railroad roundtable and the drugstore where Ava Gardner was discovered. She attended high school and college locally. I learned of Wilson’s glory days due to tobacco. Tobacco and the railroad fueled major growth from the 1940s-60s. Harris told me that an old tobacco warehouse floor was the foundation for Whirligig Park, and I discovered it was a Confederate cemetery before that. Coach also told me that Wilson was once considered the “World’s Greatest Tobacco Market” and the local radio call letters were WGTM. He said Wilson had ties to Soupy Sales and Booker T. Washington.

Just as Boseman handed me a free shirt, a truck drove up and Coach said, “You’ve got to meet this guy!” The driver was entertainer James Brown’s drummer during part of his heyday. I met Sam Lathan, but sadly messed up the photo. Brown was known as the “Hardest working man in show business.”

Wilson piqued my interest and tops my current list of many interesting towns. I had 4.75 running/walking miles in these three towns. See you soon with more!

By David Freeze

The group of county seats visited here are toward the end of my two-day swing into the northeastern part of N.C. on June 9. The first town visited was Camden, the county seat of Camden County, centered at the intersection of U.S. 158 and N.C. 343 where I found five schools, a huge grain storage facility, the historic courthouse and old jail. A few retail establishments helped, but there was not as much to see as usual. Camden is the only consolidated city/county in the state.

The Camden County Courthouse was built in 1847 and is still in use. The old jail next door was built in 1910, housing the county museum and the board of elections. The second floor has the original four cells plus a small museum which uses pictures and artifacts to tell Camden’s history. Outside, stocks and a pillory have been rebuilt to show punishment used in the 18th century. The county was named for Sir Charles Pratt, the Earl of Camden in Britain.

The nearby Dismal Swamp waterway was dug mostly by slave labor and opened in 1805, connecting the Albemarle Sound and the Chesapeake Bay. It is the oldest continuously operating man-made canal in the U.S. The Underground Railway for freedom-seeking slaves ran through the area and the large swamp helped their chances. Slave runaways often stopped for long periods on high ground in the swamp at gathering points that were less hospitable to those tracking them.

On April 19, 1862, Confederate troops repelled Union troops for five hours at Sawyer’s Lane, retreating to fortifications two miles north at Joy’s Creek only after being outflanked from the east. Both sides claimed victory: the North because they captured the field and the South because they prevented the destruction of the Dismal Swamp Canal Locks, three miles northwest in South Mills. Detailed written history of the event and battle exists and is fascinating reading. Battle of South Mills (rblong.net)

Next stop was Hertford, not to be confused with Hertford County already visited in Winton. Hertford, county seat of Perquimans County, was part of my earlier journey around the inner and outer banks by bicycle. The historic downtown, a tribute to native son Jim “Catfish” Hunter and the many beautiful riverfront homes made this stop special.

Hertford, named after Hertford, England, was incorporated in 1758 on land purchased in 1662 from the Yeopim Indians. Architecture from the 1700s and 1800s line the streets of N.C.’s seventh oldest town. Agriculture, mainly cotton, corn and soybeans, makes Hertford still a farming community. The Newbold-White house, built in 1730, is the oldest brick structure in the state. The Perquimans County Courthouse on Main Street was built between 1819-1825. Inside is the oldest land deed in the state — the first documented transaction in which a settler paid a Native American for land.

In Hertford, the small Edmundson-Fox Memorial commemorates the state’s first religious services. William Edmundson drew settlers to his first Quaker, or Society of Friends, meeting under a grove of towering cypress on the Perquimans riverbank in March 1672. Later that year, founder George Fox held meetings at the homes of area residents. Both exposed colonists to the relatively new Quaker religion that quickly took hold in the area.

The Perquimans River also inspired “Carolina Moon,” by Benny Davis and Joe Burke, in the 1920s after viewing a moon rise over the serene stretch of water. Perry Como and Dean Martin had hits with the song.

Hunter was the first baseball player signed to a major free agent contract. He helped win five world series championships and was an eight-time all-star. During high school, Hunter was shot in the foot by a brother during a hunting accident. Extensive surgery revived his baseball hopes. He retired early before dying of ALS, Lou Gehrig’s disease. A small monument downtown honors Hunter.

I left Hertford for Edenton, the second capital of North Carolina from 1722-1743 and the county seat of Chowan County. The biggest historical event in Edenton’s history was the Edenton Tea Party, America’s first political action by a group of women, done in 1774 in support of the Boston Tea Party. The town was established in 1712 and went though several name changes before settling in 1722 on Edenton to honor Governor Charles Eden who had died earlier that year.

Edenton is the home of the 1886 Roanoke River Lighthouse, facing Edenton Bay at the head of the Albemarle Sound. The lighthouse is called a screw-pile design because of its original support system. Each piling was literally screwed into the river or sound bottom so they would not pull out in heavy storms and hurricanes. The 1719 Lane House is likely the oldest in North Carolina and the 1767 Chowan County Courthouse, another National Historic Landmark, has been used since its construction.

Then on to Windsor, established in 1766, has been the county seat of Bertie County since 1794 when the courthouse and prison were moved from the old town of Cashy. Windsor is also the center of an agricultural and industrial economy based on farm products and the timber industry. The town was established at Gray’s Landing on the Cashie River. Loaded with more antebellum homes, Windsor is anchored by the Bertie County Courthouse, built in 1889. A small Civil War battle occurred here in 1864, with no significant gains by either side.

With now 62 county seats complete, 38 more are ahead. I had 6.22 miles on my feet in these four wonderful towns. See you soon!

By David Freeze

Excited to see more of N.C., I drove to Halifax. Having left Warrenton and its pre-Civil War history, I immediately arrived at the “birthplace of freedom” ahead of the Revolutionary War. Established in 1757, Halifax was named for George Montagu-Dunk, 2nd Earl of Halifax, president of the British Board of Trade from 1748 to 1761 and a friend of the Colonies. In January 1759, Halifax became the county seat of the new Halifax County. The town developed into a commercial and political center ahead of the American Revolution. North Carolina’s Fourth Provincial Congress met in Halifax in the spring of 1776, and on April 12 adopted the Halifax Resolves supporting the Continental Congress as it moved toward independence from Britain, the first colony to do so while encouraging other colonies to follow.

Halifax is located at the navigational head of the Roanoke River, making it an important colonial town. Its rich soil helped plantations flourish. By 1769, about 60 buildings had been built, making it one of the premier cities in the colony. Halifax County had a population of about 3,000, both black and white. Not all the Blacks were slaves, as some were freedmen and skilled craftsmen.

During the war, Halifax was a major supply depot for the Continental Army. Halifax Minute Men were involved in the battle at Guilford Courthouse, a hard-fought British victory. British Commanding General Cornwallis eventually brought his army of 1600 redcoats to occupy homes and plantations in Halifax and surrounding plantations. After about a week, the British army headed north to engage Washington before eventually surrendering on Oct. 19, 1781. Washington visited Halifax on his southern tour on April 16, 1791.

After a stop at the visitor center and a brief movie, I took a walking tour of the town and about 20 sites, noting that Halifax is very quiet with little traffic, which seemed perfect for such a history laden town. Several buildings are open for touring before 4 p.m. The imposing Halifax County Courthouse, finished in 1910, and a small business area offered a more recent perspective.

Next stop was Jackson, county seat for Northampton County. The very quiet and small town had little traffic and less information available. The town was called Northampton Courthouse until it was renamed Jackson in 1826 in honor of former general and then President Andrew Jackson.

By the time Jackson became the county seat, horse racing and breeding had brought Northampton County national attention. In 1816, the famous racehorse Sir Archie was brought to Mowfield Plantation just west of Northampton Courthouse. Sir Archie reportedly beat all other horses in his specialty four-mile races. His bloodline sired Secretariat, Seabiscuit and many other famous racehorses.

Revolutionary War hero French General Marquis de Lafayette visited Jackson in 1825 and was met by a state delegation here. The current Northampton County Courthouse was built in 1858, A small Civil War confrontation occurred here in 1863.

After spending the night in Ahoskie, I made the short drive to Winton, county seat of Hertford County. I found Winton to be very small with few vehicles moving in the early morning of June 10 and I didn’t expect much. The courthouse is huge and new but located just outside of town. I found a great story as I began my journey around town and immediately spotted a Civil War Trails sign pointing toward the Chowan River, incredibly still and beautiful on this early morning. A small park commemorates an interesting engagement in 1862 when eight Federal gunboats steamed up the river to Winton. A significant Confederate force and battery were waiting in town and fired on the gunboats, soon forcing them to leave. That evening, the Confederate forces were fed and celebrated in town. Their leader marched the troops out of town afterward, ahead of the Union gunboats returning to shell the town. Troops onboard the gunboats torched Winton, making it the first North Carolina town to be burned in the war. Only the Methodist church and two buildings owned by Union sympathizers were spared.

I found an interesting burial plot on the grounds of the municipal building that I suspect served as the old courthouse. About 20 gravesites, including at least two Civil War soldiers killed at Chancellorsville, were interred there among several monuments.

Gatesville, county seat of Gates County, was next. First known as Bennett’s Creek Landing, from 1779 it was known as Gates Courthouse until its incorporation in 1830 as Gatesville, being named for Horatio Gates, a commander in the American Revolutionary War. As commanding general at the Battle of Saratoga in 1777, he delivered one of the most damaging blows yet felt by English forces in the war. However, in 1780 Gates’ failure at the disastrous Battle of Camden transformed him from one of the Revolution’s most esteemed generals into one of its most controversial.

Timber and agriculture drive the economy in Gates County. I saw it written, “The pace of life is slow. Take time to stop and talk to the people, have a bar-b-que sandwich and soda at one of the family restaurants. Hang out for awhile and just generally stop and smell the flowers.”

Small county seats made up the day, which is fine with me. I love finding new places to visit and roads to drive. The day saw 6.2 miles running and walking brought back some great photos. We’re at 58 counties done, 42 remaining. See you back here soon for some of the Inner Banks counties.