Day 13

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By David Freeze

A most enjoyable day


  After a very pleasant sleep at the Black Range Lodge in Kingston, New Mexico, I headed down the mountain for almost nine more miles to Hillsboro. Hillsboro has a restaurant that thrives and a lot of beautiful older homes, but it was very quiet as I rode through.


    Then on to Caballo, where there is a huge reservoir and a nice convenience store. The store clerk told me that in September and October there will be several hundred cyclists stopping by his store on my same route. Next came Arrey, the first store with ice for my drinks, then Derry, Garfield and Salem.


  Next was Hatch, where I could spent lots of time. There was plenty to see, sort of a reminder of a Route 66 town. Hatch is the Chili Capital of the World and it was booming. Then Radium Springs was less exciting, but that was just after Joe Myers joined me for the last 19 miles into Las Cruces. I am staying in Joe’s daughter’s house tonight. Joe is from La Luz, New Mexico and his mother, Catherine, lives in Statesville. Joe’s aunt, Margaret, and her husband, Bob Harris, live on High Rock.


  This is my last night in New Mexico. Today highlights included lots of crops planted along the Rio Grande, including peppers, soybeans, corn and vast amounts of pecan trees. I saw one man screen for gold from a creek, something I would like to do. Something I didn’t see was the town of Truth or Consequences after the route veered away from it. Sounds like a great name for a town.


    Today’s ride totaled 91 miles, but finished with a tailwind, clouds and the pleasant ride with Joe. My legs felt terrible this morning but came around in the afternoon.


    I’m excited to head for Texas tomorrow, although it will make up nearly 1,000 miles of the whole trip. The heat wasn’t as bad today, but will return. Keep riding along and sending those prayers!

Day 12

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By David Freeze

The last big climb


  I left Silver City and a nice room at the Cooper Canyon Motel early this morning, focused on getting over Emory Pass, the highest point on this ride. I was loaded with supplies because the towns ahead looked questionable.


    All the riding was challenging, up and down, right from the start. After leaving US 180, I turned uphill on 152. Shortly afterward, I met the most interesting person on the ride so far. Sam Ortega stopped because he thought I needed a ride right before Hanover. We talked about several things and really hit it off. Sam was worried about me and ending up giving me ice water, a snack, gloves and a rag. I even expected I might see him later.


  The next town was missing when I passéd San Lorenzo. So far none of the towns had supplies, but I had carried enough for the big climb ahead. The terrain kept getting steeper, resembling some of the long climbs I had experienced out west in the bigger mountains.


    I met about 30 cows coming down the road that I was going up. They were herded by a truck following them. Evidently cows are kept in the area because of many cattle grates in the road.


    Finally, at about 5:30pm, I topped the mountain at 8,228 feet, grabbed a few photos and started down 8 steep miles headed for the Black Range Lodge in Kingston. A couple miles down, I hit one of the most memorable thunderstorms I’ve ever experienced. Heavy, blowing rain, with occasional lightning and hail. My fingers were so cold that I could barely grip the break levers and the rain made the brakes struggle to slow the bike. Then the road started flooding.


    Struggling mightily, I found the road for the lodge and pedaled through more flooding. Catherine, one of the owners, told me that they had not received such heavy rain in months. I’m warm, happy, and ready to sleep after just 48 super challenging miles.


    I did find out that the huge man made mountains I had seen the last few days are the leftovers of copper mining. I visited the observation area for the Santa Rita Mine, one of the oldest and largest in the world.


    Tomorrow, most of the riding will be downhill and I am ready for that. Texas is just a couple days away! Join me tomorrow!

Day 11

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By David Freeze

Last morning in Arizona drags on, then New Mexico in the afternoon.
    People sometimes ask what makes a nice evening motel experience. Last night, I was at the Budget Inn in Safford, Arizona. The owner was genuinely interested in my ride, plus he made sure I knew about the food choices close by. The room was spotless, with plenty of room for the bike and a good supply of ice. And it was quiet! A few nights on the road have been ruined by loud neighbors.


    The owner told me yesterday that the route ahead for today only had one small hill and the rest was flat. I found it one long hill for 35 miles, with a downhill finally for the last five. Very slow, I was only able to average 6mph. That first 40 miles of the day had no supply points.


    About noon, I arrived in Duncan, where the only convenience store there had plenty of business. With no supplies available on the route  for the hot afternoon ride, I bought plenty of water and even went back twice. My card was declined the second time, with an email asking if the charges were legitimate. The cashier told me that the road ahead was mostly flat, something that I hoped was true but would not count on it. She was right.


    As I write this, a massive storm is happening outside. Power has gone off twice already and I can hear the wind howling. All this on a day with virtually no clouds and only a 10% chance of rain.


  So far, I am safe inside the Holiday Motel in Lordsburg, New Mexico. My food came from Dollar General. I ate a quart and a half of ice cream soon as Soon as I got to the room, and have used plenty of good ice too. It was hot today.


    Two unusual things from this morning included historical markers at the sites where settlers were killed by the warring Apaches. The other thing actually got worse all day. Persistent flies were on me even when riding, and were worse when I stopped. First day for this occurrence. Today had 78 miles.


    Tomorrow will start the serious climbing on up to just over 8,200 feet. I will analyze as I go because many services are not available at higher altitudes. And Texas is just a few days away.


    Luann and Gary Fesperman from the Trophy House are regular ride sponsors and chipped in again. The Trophy House does all the awards for our races.


    Join me tomorrow night from who knows where. I just know I’m climbing again.

Day 10

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By David Freeze

First, just a little bit about last night left unsaid. I got to the room very late after struggling with big climbs all day. When I finally got to the Belle Aire Motel, I found the perfect small room at a great price and some high tech too. I have never seen a shower that the water comes out of a wide and flat shower head at the ceiling. The water totally covered me because I didn’t know how to adjust it. Might have to get one of those for home.


    Today, I left Globe on another severe hill up and out of the beautiful little town. My favorite town of all I’ve seen on this trip. I spent the whole day on US 70, with most of the bike lane in poor quality. First stop after massive rollers, endless ups and downs, was Peridot. The only store in town was all but empty and had a sign on the door, “No mask, no entry!”.  So I skipped it and rode on. A small store listed on the map didn’t materialize and I began to worry about water.


    23.5 miles later, while riding in the San Carlos Apache Reservation, I finally found the listed store in Bylas, named after a long ago chief. Again, “no mask, no entry” was posted on the door but others were going in and I did too. I got ice, water and a drink, along with a cookie. Not a single person smiled to anyone in the store, so I was glad to leave.


    While hot, the terrain eased off some and so did the heavy traffic. I passed through Geronimo, nothing but a sign and a few older buildings.


    Then it got better, the store in Fort Thomas had a display on the Indian warfare era. Very interesting, especially the old pictures of the fort itself. After Geronimo’s final surrender, the fort  was used to make sure that his followers stayed at home along the fertile farmland next to the Gila River. All this area had farming with hay and soybeans looking great.


    I then rode through Pima and Thatcher, both squarely in the farm belt. My final destination was Safford, where after 80 miles, I will spend the night at the Budget Inn. It’s 99 degrees outside, but maybe was hotter earlier.


    Still, it was a great day!  Here’s how so many of my favorites came together. Anytime I can ride along a river and a railroad track, it means that the area is flat. I had a tailwind too and the best bike lane all day, plus reasonable drivers. I’m certainly out of the desert, at least for now.


    Finally, I have some challenges beginning tomorrow with almost non existent supply points. Long rides with just what I have. I will plan it out tonight.


    Thanks to Gear for Races for again sponsoring my ride. Luis Villareal has supplied Rowan’s shirts for years.
    See you back here tomorrow for what happens on the unsupplied ride!

Day 8

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By David Freeze

Beat the day before!


  That is one of my personal goals and I also use it for my personal training clients. But so far, this trip seems to be setting the bar higher and higher every day. I started the issue late last night, and you will see what developed.


    Last night, I was reading the route maps after I had submitted my story and photos. I read that many cyclists might consider exchanging United States Bicycle Route 90 for the next segment of Adventure Cycling’s map. I decided to do it about 10pm, partly because I had already used US 60 before.


    So, I collected my damage deposit early this morning at the Econolodge and hit the road at first light again, planning to get out of Phoenix before another hot day got started. I looked at the USBR route and jumped on US 60 first thing. About 8 miles in, you guessed it, I got my first ever visit from an Arizona State trooper. He sat behind me in his car and told me to exit the freeway immediately on his loudspeaker, which I was not going to do without talking to him. He came up the bike and said, “So, I’m going to write you a ticket!” I calmly explained what I was doing and that cyclists had used this route numerous times. He didn’t like that and went back to his car telling me to wait. For 15 minutes I stood there, getting hotter in two ways. When he was ready to talk, he pulled the car up beside me and said, “You rode that thing to Alaska?” He had changed completely and told me what he suggested I do, which was to follow a very long city street until the freeway ended and then join US 60 again. I did that and was not hassled anymore, but I even had the cycling agency’s number for him to call.


  Back on 60 and losing time, I didn’t really know what to expect. It was steady climb from the time I left Phoenix and getting hotter. The first town was Superior and I was toasted pretty well by then. After refueling and already at 3,000 feet, up from 1100 that morning, I climbed for the next four miles to use a tunnel to go through a mountain. Then a rainstorm hit, dropping the temperature at least 20 degrees. Expecting easy riding on the other side of the tunnel, we continued to climb and eventually topped out at 4,600 feet, highest yet.
  Very slow with the continued climbing, I had no service to let the motel know that I was still coming, but thankfully he held the room anyway. I am in the Belle Air Motel, very high tech in some ways with the owner in his early 30’s.


    Towns visited today included Superior, one of few with a stout uphill right through town and beyond. Then Miami, Claypool and Globe, where I am spending the night. All of them run together, with Miami in the process of cleaning up from a Saturday flood.  I saw spectacular mountain scenery this afternoon, including Devil’s Canyon. Today’s mileage totaled 75.


    I’m expecting less climbing tomorrow on the way to Safford, which will set me up for a long stretch the following day without supply points. Tomorrow in this area should be less than a hundred degrees, first of those in a while. The elevation helps. New Mexico is just a couple days ahead.


    Peter Asciutto and Vac and Dash in Albemarle support Rowan running in various ways. He is also a regular sponsor of my rides.


    Last thing I did today was stop by a grocery store and cram a bunch in already full bags. I hope to not be as late getting off the road tomorrow night. See you then for what happens on Day 9!

Day 7

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By David Freeze

  I met first light this morning on the way out of Wickenburg. I knew my maps called for a mostly flat and somewhat downhill ride. Two McDonald’s Egg McMuffins,less the sausage, hit the spot. A low in the upper 70’s felt even a little chilly on the bike.


    I rolled through Morristown with no services but a very good road. Then my plan of getting ice 10-12 times a day began in Whittmann.


    Next, the suburbs of Phoenix began, including Surprise, Peoria and Glendale. With Phoenix they all total over 2 million people. My maps called for me to follow various trails and canal paths, etc., and not see the city. After a couple of miles of useless up and downs meant for mountain bike riders, I got off the trails and hit the streets. It was well over 30 miles of riding across the city with multiple dismounts at traffic light, well over a hundred at least. A total of 84 miles felt strong.


    At least one source had the high in Phoenix at 107, but I never got overheated although my phone did. It got all confused and wanted me to make wrong turns on the way to the Econolodge where I am spending the night. In my 12th stop of the day for ice, I actually placed the phone on top of a bag of ice. The phone shut down for temperature twice.


    One of the nicest things today happened when I was riding through one of better neighborhoods with colored gravel for yards. A very nice woman stepped out of her garage and helped with directions and with a very cold bottle of water. From Kentucky, she had recently moved to Phoenix to help her health with the arid climate. She told me that natives call the current weather “monsoon season” because it the only time of the year when it is humid. I heard a weather guy on TV last night say that the humidity was lifting out.


    Late this afternoon, I saw the University of Arizona in Tempe, the downtown area and rode into Mesa, where I spent the night. Nothing really unusual happened today, until I got to the motel. No ice, no chair in the still nice room, a cash damage deposit required and more.


    Tomorrow starts my second map sequence with another round of significant climbing. It will be uphill all day. And over the next 400 miles, every town is small and some spaced far apart.       

       
      Dick and Jean Richards are back as significant sponsors of this ride, and thanks to them for their continued support.


      On we go, the first week done. See you tomorrow with tired climbing legs!

Day 6

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By David Freeze

40 miles of steady climbing, the heat returns


  I found that first town that I really like at Salome. Very small, at less than 2,000 people, I had nice conversations and slept very well. Last night, Northern Arizona had solid coverage of big thunderstorms. I got caught out in it after a trip to the Family Dollar and the convenience store for pizza. Nice people all around, including at Sheffler’s Motel.


  This morning I was late by 30 minutes on riding at first light. That is my every day goal. The road was wet and had standing water, an oddity for this area. The first town was Wendell, and all the supply points were closed that were supposed to be open. The next town, Aguila , was supposed to be closed for the off-season and I worried about having enough water for the day’s ride. No other towns were on the route.


  I rode into Aguila and spotted a store with a vehicle parked in front, amazed to find it open. Not many supplies available, but I got extra water and a muffin. The 12 year old running the cash register counted out perfect change, something I saw the previous night in Salome. Very happy that I found an open store when under duress lost some  steam when I found yet another new Family Dollar on the other end of town. They are big stores and sell vegetables and produce.


    Lots of vultures were out and one picked up a snake off the road and flew off with it. Hay was being raked even though it had been rained on the night before.


  It was hot by 1pm and I couldn’t make Phoenix anyway, so I stopped for the day in Wickenberg. Wickenberg is rich in gold history, Indian conflicts and stage coach happenings. Population is around 7,000.


  I rode 55 miles on US 60, straight as an arrow. Nothing unusual, light traffic, but after climbing to about 3,000 feet yet again, I dropped back down to 2,200.


  Tomorrow is Phoenix and maybe something past it, with the heat burners back on. I’m grateful to have a mostly downhill ride but cycling through a big city is very challenging.


  Thanks to Frank and Janis Ramsey for sponsoring this ride, friends since I met them on the Alaska trip. Frank is from Salisbury, and he and Janis now have an apartment in Salisbury as well.


    Next week, I will finish off Arizona and get into New Mexico, were I will cross the Rockies. Can’t wait to be downhill toward Texas and the lower south. Keep riding along!

Day 5

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By David Freeze

Comeback from yesterday’s adversity


  I knew it would take all I had to get across the desert yesterday, especially with the predicted high temp of around 113. As mentioned yesterday, something happened near the end of the ride. Although I have been in slightly warmer temperatures, the ride through the Mojave Desert didn’t seem as bad as yesterday. I caught a couple of fortunate breaks to get ice water but that same refreshing water becomes very hot quickly, bath water hot. Drinking that water did nothing for me and I could barely get it down. I stopped at the first farm I saw at the end of the desert and was given ice and water. It took a while to come around, mostly the ability to stand and purposely walk.


    Riverview County Sheriff Deputies responded, and after they saw I was Ok, took me and my bike to my planned motel. I was severely dehydrated and possibly overcome by the sheer heat index. My promise to everyone was a half day of riding today and the rest off to rejuvenate after the incredibly challenging first few days of the trip.


    With that, I left America’s Best Value Inn about 7am, only deciding to go at all about 6am. I planned a 37 mile ride and rest in the afternoon. I crossed the beautiful Colorado River and into Arizona, no regret leaving the bad road state and on into Ehrenburg.


    God rode with me for sure this morning on I-10 as low clouds and light drizzle cooled the air. The next town was Quartzite, where I called the motel in Brenda that I wanted to stay in tonight. Closed for the summer I was told and that extended my ride to 61 miles and a 4pm dismount. Four steady climbs made the day tough, but I’m feeling good now and cool, made better by the rain and a high of about 95. Well off yesterday’s official 114. Also made better by my first egg, cheese and tomato breakfast sandwich at Subway. And I now have an affinity for ice, looking for it all the time out here.


    The sun came out in early afternoon warming the air just ahead of the last climb that took me to Salome, Arizona and Sheffler’s Motel. This is a small town of a little over 1,000 but with a convenience store, a very important Family Dollar and two motels. My ride totaled 61 miles.


  I am back up at more than 1800 feet elevation and will go slightly higher tomorrow, before a welcome descent into Phoenix, probably day after tomorrow.


    Father and Son Produce has been sponsoring my trips since the first one. Stop by and pick up some of the fruits and vegetables soon. Linda has access to all my books too.


    Thanks for riding along!

Day 4

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By David Freeze

More than expected happened on an important day

  I had a plan to attack big heat on the hottest day yet. My goal was to cross the desert at its most famous point, from Brawley to Palo Verde. That is about 70 miles from my motel. Part of my Adventure Cycling map is an elevation description and I didn’t expect today’s ride to be as hard as the last two.


  My heat plan was to start riding in the dark at 4am when the low for the night was 87 degrees. I left the motel in Brawley and had ridden a  couple miles but  wasn’t sure which way to go. I asked an employee for the Department of the Interior, who said, “You certainly are not  going now, are you? It’s dark out there and there are cows and plenty of speeding vehicles”.  I just told him I was going now because the expected high was going to quite hot.


    i rode holding a great little flashlight and just missed hitting a possum, but no cows got in my way. The first 25 miles went perfectly and I saw a wonderful sunrise. Through this area is a big Naval Reservation where I heard planes and gunfire for hours.


  I stopped in Glamis when I found a store open that was supposed to be closed. Had a nice talk with the store owner about all the cyclists she has met. The owner gave me a bag of ice too, good for keeping my water cold for about 10 miles as the heat rose.


Just before Glamis was six miles of huge sand dunes, something that locals celebrate with a beach store. And just after were miles and miles of the Chocolate Mountain range. The heat was really up full blast as I pedaled for miles over rollers that the locals signed as “Dips”. Up and down, some hard climbing involved, even though my maps didn’t show it.


  Next came my first ever sight of a Border Patrol Station, with all vehicles required to drive through. I stopped after pedaling  though and seeing a sign that said, “Don’t stop”. Then I sat outside under the overhanging roof for precious shade.


Thinking it a long shot, I decided to knock on the door and get some cold water possibly. Border Patrol Agent Fraser was most accommodating and filling my bottles with ice and water. He told me that local agents were working hard and were away today while processing illegals and that a very large amount are trying to get in.
  On a day that my face and ears were burning out in the desert, I made it though, well sort off. I will explain this tomorrow along with a short ride and part of a rest day.


  Let’s don’t forget Skinny Wheels Bike Shop as one of the trip sponsors. They boxed and shipped my bike perfectly this time. No damage! Eric and Scott are a wealth of knowledge concerning all things bikes.


  See you tomorrow!

Day 3

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By David Freeze

I have decided that California isn’t my favorite state, not even close. I started out from Pine Valley this morning. I will admit to spending an almost sleepless night. I listened to the weather late and discovered that serious heat was just ahead, much of it from the same system that is gripping the northwest. I had a plan, sort of, but not good enough to sleep on it.


      I had some more climbing to do and hit two peaks above 4,100 feet. I am writing this early because I took a break to do it while cooling off in Seeley, a little farming community. I am going to submit the story and ride at least another 20 miles. I have a room in Brawley tonight and it will take 2 1/2 more hours to get there with water stops, if I can find them. I have to make Brawley because it starts possibly the biggest adventure day of my life tomorrow. I’m keeping it secret until I do it.


  Other towns visited today’s so far were Boulevard, Jacumba Hot Springs, Ocotillo and I am about to hit El Centroi with hopes to sleep in Brawley. Nothing special about any of them to this point. Lots of hay has been harvested near Seeley, amazing to me because I haven’t seen anything green all day.


    I did see the border wall, one of goals for the trip. It is very substantial and well guarded at least in this area.


    I cycled over a live snake racing across the road and though about picking up the rattlers from a dead rattlesnake, I met Mary from Tucson and her sister Ruth from Portsmouth, Virginia. Mary had done my same trip years earlier and plans to follow along.


    I had my first law enforcement encounter just a short while ago. All cyclists, and I haven’t seen another long distance one yet, were told to exit I-8 and take a frontage road called Ethan Howes Highway. The road has not been paved in years and is in sad shape. After a half mile, I found it block with barricades that said “Road Closed”. I turned around and went back onto the interstate to the objections of a convention store owner who said, “They will write you a ticket.”

    I had that encounter with California Highway Patrol officer an hour later who told me that he was about to take me in. I told him that without the other road passable, I had to be allowed a way to keep going. He told me I was making matters worse and should have called 911. I said, “It wasn’t an emergency, obviously to your state which doesn’t put a priority on fixing roads.” There is more the story but I’ll save it for later.


    Send those prayers for tomorrow. And keep following along, this trip certainly has the makings of something special. The amount of emails and texts has been amazing so far.
Can’t wait to see how this ride develops. Thanks to all the readers!

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