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By David Freeze

50^th state cycling adventures comes to a close

   The Big Island of Hawaii is the nation’s largest island with an area of 4028 square miles. It has the world’s tallest mountain from ocean floor to summit as Mauna Kea rises 33,476 feet in that manner. And it has the southernmost point in the 50 states at Ka Lae, or “South Point”. And Hawaii is the only state once ruled by its own royalty.

    An amazing place for sure! But being confident in the beginning that I could see everything on one island in a week was a big mistake. I had plenty of good information as I flew to Hawaii and the usual desire to see everything possible. I saw Mauna Kea from a distance and was on the same road to reach South Point but didn’t have time for the hike to either one.

    What I did see was most active volcano in the world at Kilauea in the Volcanoes National Park. Think a smaller Grand Canyon but with steam vents just biding their time. I saw whales in the ocean, once from my room on the last evening and I saw the amazing waterfalls and flora and fauna of one island of the beautiful state. I met the amazing people, nearly all ready with a smile as soon or even before I was.

     I used to write about how friendly the locals were when I traveled to a new American city. After seeing all 50 states, my award goes to the native Hawaiians. Friendly and outgoing, and so happy. We should all learn that lesson.

    My last night was the most relaxing on the island, not that they all weren’t, but just because my list of things to figure out had dwindled to just how to spend my last morning before returning to the airport. I’ll admit that the time difference made sleeping enough very hard. I wanted to get up at midnight and get on the road by 2am, matching the times back here.

    Imagine sitting on your own room patio and watching a humpback whale surface just offshore. Not once, but twice. Then the ocean slapped against the seawall just 30 feet from that same chair all night long, the best sleep aid I could have.

     I did sleep well on that last night and had a decent run early in the always present humidity. Then a wonderful breakfast of bagels, fresh pineapple and papaya. I knew my time on the island was ending. There was enough time left to walk about a mile and half through Kona, do a little shopping, and savor the environment of peace and tranquility of Sunday morning in Hawaii. I heard an open-air church service from the the second floor of a restaurant and bar. I kept counting down the minutes and finally pressed the phone app to summon Uber. It was time to go.

     Just five minutes later, Alice pulled up and I loaded my bags in her car. During the 15 minute ride to the airport, we talked about my time on the island, and hers too as a native Hawaiian. My impressions and hers weren’t far apart. As a native Hawaiian, we talked about prices, the climate and even whale watching. Alice knew a place that visitors don’t see and when I go back, I’ll find it. She told me the name of Bougainvillia plants and their flowers that thrive even in the lava rock.

     I saw all the main roads, either on the bike (about 175 miles), a tour van or the almost free bus service. I missed the southern side of the island between the Kilauea and south of Kona. When I pedal the long rides, I always have to leave a few things behind to see next time, and you can bet I’ll do my best to return. And visit some of the other islands too. I love the Hawaiian music and words. Next time, I will bring my own bike seat for sure!

      The Kona airport is open air and perfect, except for Sunday’s high intensity TSA rush and then going through an agriculture inspection. My flight to LA was on time, and the connecting flight to Charlotte arrived at 6am on Monday morning.

      Back safe and sound again! Thanks to God for that, for riding with me as always. And for the support of the Post readers, especially Tim and Linda Hoffner, Bill Godley, Leonard Wood and Dick and Jean Richards. To everyone, we’ve done 50 states, the District of Columbia, Canada twice and all the Great Lakes together. Mahalo (Thanks) to every one of you for riding along for some or all of the journey. We did it together!  

 Today felt more normal with a great mix of people and scenery. And some challenges and surprises too!

  To begin with, my butt is doing better with the different bike seat. I’ve learned to raise up just enough when crossing those dreaded bumps. Next time, I will bring my own seat. I had an agenda after another wonderful night in good hotel, the Hotel Honoka’a Club. It rained most of the night and loud birds were chirping constantly. I loved it all.

   First, I wanted to start down the coast toward Hilo and explore along the way. The road shoulder for the most part were plenty wide and traffic was moderate and courteous. Being on a new bike makes me unsure at times but all turned out well. First up was a stop at Donna’s Cookies, a fast moving little cookie factory right on the highway. As soon as you enter, they give out samples. I chose peanut butter and got 10 cookies for a great price. The boss let me take their picture, but all the ladies got serious and looked down instead of laughing as they had been.

    I moved on and just happened to ride by the smallest Post Office I have ever seen. Just about an 8ft. X 8ft., with one operator inside. I met Mary Jo Stevenson coming out and we struck up a conversation across the road that soon moved to just in front of the building. Mary Jo is a local pastor and former Ironman Triathlon competitor. Mary Jo said, “At one time, this was the smallest PO in America and the tour buses used to stop often. Not sure if it still is.”

  After that, I had my heart set on the Akaka Falls State Park. Mary Jo told me it was uphill and was it ever at about 400 feet in elevation per mile for nearly four miles. I had read about some theft occurring from parked cars and wondered what I could do with the $2800 bike. I got the one park attendant to watch it and all turned out well. The falls are spectacular, at 442 feet which doubles the height of Niagara Falls. Got some great pictures and rocketed down the hill to Mr. Ed’s Bakery in Hononu. I met Rick, Jenny and Patty from Livermore, California amid a great conversation of cycling in general and my 50th state. Rick’s group sampled most everything in the store while I got a blueberry and a lilikoi turnover. Lillikoi is made of passion fruit and I am about to eat it now. I did sample the taste and loved it.

   Next up was decision time about where to spend the night in Hilo. I chose Arnott’s Lodging and Adventures where I have a very unique room. There are two other bedrooms in this apartment but no one will use them, leaving me with a large bathroom and kitchen for my own use through early Saturday morning. Gloria did a great job of taking care of me and it is from here that I take a van tour of the Volcanoes National Park on Friday.

  Then will come free time in the afternoon in Hilo. I am on the beach, and have been directed to a nearby black sand beach and rainbow falls. I’ll be on the bike again for these places and more. Tentatively, the bike and I plan to return to Kona early on Saturday morning.

   Today was the best day yet in Hawaii! I loved it all except that terrible climb, or maybe the terrible climb just made all the rest seem better. With that, I hope you will join me for Friday’s update and some more fun. Keep sending your messages and ideas, and those prayers too! See you back here tomorrow!

By David Freeze

 Following the best sleep yet since I arrived in Hawaii, I had big plans for today. After a healthy meal the evening before in Hawaii, I wanted to climb the Kohala Mountain Road and keep rolling for close to 80 miles and make Hilo late this evening. Nothing like that occurred.

   I rode back into Hawi and headed up a step grade immediately as I turned left on Kohala Mountian Road. Pedaling regularly at 8-10 percent grade,  I was soaked and pouring sweat immediately. I needed 22 miles to make Waimea this way, but a fast route of 30 miles back the way I came the day before  would have included lots of downhill. Still I wanted the hilly route or thought I did. I found beautiful hay, cattle and horse farms with amazing views of the Pacific far below. I also found lots of traffic and many tight curves and almost no shoulder.

   The highlight of the morning was meeting Stark Draper from Toronto as he caught me from behind with 1,500 feet of elevation to go. We rode together for a while and then made photos before he headed off. In my delirium, I am pretty sure that Stark has been delayed from going back to work by the coronavirus.

   Once in a while, I just have nothing and today was that day. A constant slug uphill dragging along the extra 50 pounds of gear didn’t go well. Once over the 3,500 foot pass, I found mostly an easy coast downhill into Waimea, a good sized town for the Big Island. My first stop at a convenience store was for two little ice cream containers and a huge bottle of water. All that sweat and effort left me to try and refuel like I had before in similar times.

    I gave up on the idea of a Hilo today. So I called Siri’s cheap motel in Waimea and got a price of $222 for tonight. Then I asked the proprietor of the convenience store what I could expect ahead and was told no motels existed until I made Hilo. I asked two residents while they pumped gas and they both agreed, although an inebriated customer told me there was some but he couldn’t remember where. The two guidebooks I have been using listed none.

   Intent to head for Hilo on a so far crappy day, I stopped once more at the Shell station and asked Rae. She didn’t know but suggested I asked Siri. My pronunciation of Hawaii names got Rae laughing. But we found one, the Hotel Honoka’a Club. I called ahead and headed that way.

   Suddenly my energy was back and a slightly downhill road helped a lot. Just 90 minutes later, I had a room in a 1926 era hotel in one of the best little towns I have come across. Maybe the best since several Idaho towns and their gunfighter hotels of the late 1880’s. There is no TV and just like last night’s motel, no AC or heat. But who needs either in Hawaii? It has been raining since I got here and is pouring now. The owners, Jory Watland and Annelle Lee are fabulous and shared lots of information and a very fair price for the room I got.

   Honokaa was a sugar production town just following the Civil War and continued until 1994. Now all those old town buildings have found life in more modern touristy businesses. I walked around town just before the heavy rain came and loved it all.

    Tomorrow, I do plan to make Hilo while stopping in the other little towns on reportedly one of the most beautiful  coasts anywhere in Hawaii. And the Akaka Falls State Park is on the way. I have booked the bike until early Saturday morning, so there is still much to do.

   I have been trying to rehydrate this evening as the heavy rain continues to fall, very happy that I am not out riding in it. While not the day I expected, it was still a good day and I am ready for less up and down riding tomorrow.

   See you back here tomorrow for Thursday’s report from the Big Island!

By David Freeze

  I am at the Club Hotel tonight on the eastern side of Havi, pronounced Haavee. I just took my first ever outside shower, not associated with a campground, on one of these trips. I have this great little throwback room in a motel left over from the 50’s. There are two bathrobes hanging in the room for me to us and my bathroom is right beside my room. And the shower is just underneath it and accessed from the yard. It is all so cool and is the first room that has been reasonable on the whole trip.

I ran five miles this morning and checked out of the Kona Beach Hostel. I gave it rave reviews for everything except a $16 charge if you don’t stay a two nights back to back. I will probably go back later in the week.

The rental bike came from Bike Works in Kona, another good deal if I don’t wreck it. It is a $2800 carbon hybrid bike, supposed to be heavy enough to carry the 50-60 pounds I’m lugging along. Once the bike was set up with bag racks, the mechanic sent me outside to try it. It felt very awkward, especially since they had me test it out on a narrow and sloping parking lot. Once I got it all loaded, I still walked it through a strip shopping center parking lot, slightly afraid to try the bike with the load on it until I was on level ground.

 All worked out well but I am still on the hook if I wreck it. They made me sign a $2800 credit card receipt, just in case. I brought my own pedals but should have brought my own seat too. The seat is terrible so far. I’ve been applying chamois butter all day. Day 1 is in the books and I am probably going to use the bike for at least three. About 59 miles today.

 Several highlights occurred today. I stopped at the first convenience store on the way out of Kona and saw the highest prices I have seen yet. A $3.99 bagel and one of those little banana nut breads for $8.99. I used the bathroom and got away from there fast.

Next after miles and miles of riding through the lava fields, a windy area that makes up most of the Ironman Triathlon bike course, I saw a big crowd gathered around a blue enclosed trailer. A dozen people were ordering or waiting to pickup their malasadas, an apparent special donut unique to Hawaii. It is one big puff of pastry with the topping still hot in the middle. When I ordered, I asked how long to make two Bavarian cream donuts and one of her Mango Lemonades. I had only been on the rode for 30 miles and needed a boost. The operator whispered that she would serve me out the back window while the others waited at the front. I could only eat one and drink the fantastic Mango drink.

 It is an almost never ending 20 mile climb coming into Havi and I was worn out when I made the top of the hill and the triathlon turnaround. The cyclists make great time on their way back through the sea level town of Kawaihae and back to Kona.

While in Kawaihae, another of the wonderfully named towns, I asked the clerk at a store if she knew of reasonable nearby hotels. She gave me two names and one was closed for the day at 3:30 pm. The message said, “We’re open to 4 every day but it is Hawaiian time if we have already closed.”

After checking into this wonderful Club Motel, I rode back uphill to the Takata grocery store. Prices were reasonable but not a banana could be found in the store. I did buy a bean filled Anpan, another Hawaiian treat.

 I am beginning to find that the Hawaiians are a very happy group when away from the town of Kona. One guy smiled and laughed when he gave me directions and the Havi police chief smiled a lot when we talked about my 50th state cycled.

The goal has been completed, but it’s back on the saddle again tomorrow. I plan to go over the mountain into Waimea and then make part of the journey toward Hilo.  Hilo and Juno are the real towns on the Big Island, and Hilo is the gateway to the Volcanoes National Park.

So, join me again tomorrow when we see what is special about Wednesday’s ride. Thanks to Leonard Wood for advice and support for this adventure. I hope you all will keep riding along.

By David Freeze

After 23 straight hours of mostly awake time, I went to bed in Kona, Hawaii, thinking I had a pretty good plan. My goal for the week is to spend at least three days riding, a day mostly trying to see whales and a day at the Kilauea volcano. I also want to see as many sunsets as I can while on the western side of the Big Island. I got one great one last night. Tonight is drizzly and cloudy so I may not be able to see one tonight. There is a big luau at the resort I stayed at last night, so I hope to check that out.

  I started this morning with a 5.5 mile run, part of it on the Ironman Triathlon course. I read that a Chinese billionaire owns the rights to the event after paying 900 million dollars for it. Lots of runners and cyclists seem to be out on the course daily. I already recognize the street and road names and some of the locations I have seen on TV.

  Next, with an idea toward saving some money in this very expensive area, I walked four plus  miles to Captain Dan’s Whale Watch boat leaving out of Honokohau Harbor. We left with 40 people and three more crew for a “3 hour tour”, but for all you Gilligan fans, we all did come back.

   For two hours, we road out to deep water, about 4,000 ft, and after seeing nothing, we came back in the area near the harbor where a humpback whale was sighted this morning. Adult humpbacks, as big as a school bus, have an amazing story. They live near southern Alaska for most of the year, then they migrate to Hawaii to breed, during which time they don’t eat. The mother loses as much as five tons during the January to March period. Those whales travel as much as 6,000 miles a year. Once pregnant, the humpbacks return to Alaska to recover weight before returning to Hawaii one year later where the baby whale is born.

  Other whales in the area are pilot, beeked, sperm and several more. But humpbacks are rockstars, the ones tourists want to see. And luckily we did spot mother and child when then came up for air probably a dozen times. At least five other whale boats and a big dive boat all followed them too for about 30 minutes until they left the area.

  It was a wonderful time on the water, upper 70s and partly sunny. The water just off the land mass is a deep blue and clear to more than 100 feet down. The captain asked those onboard to keep looking down because whales often pass under the boat.

   While whale watching, we were treated to drinks, Hawaiian fruit and finally, lavender scented hand towels. I tried to look like this wasn’t my first time. CJ and Rico took care of the 40 passengers and Captain Dan made sure we knew plenty about the whales. I was fascinated on my first ever whale watching journey. I’ve always wanted to do it but just like the July 4th rodeo in the Badlands, those items have been done!

   I walked back to town, therefore totaling 13 1/2 miles for the day, and saving about $40 in Uber fees. It drizzled on the way back and is now very cloudy. I am staying in the Kona Beach Hostel tonight and possibly tomorrow night as well. I have a private room and a bathroom next door. Very nice so far, but let’s see what the night brings.

   My plan is to pick up the bike tomorrow and either ride north or south. North is the Ironman course, south is another interesting area with black and green sand beaches. South also puts me nearer the Volcanoes National Park.

    Gas here is about $3.81 a gallon, no plastic bags are allowed and I am slowing finding ways to afford things. ABC stores have lots of other things including decent priced sandwiches and very affordable water and snacks. But I did see a $28 t-shirt today.

   Thanks to the Post, Father and Son Produce, Godley’s Garden Center and Dick Richards for helping to provide this event. I will see you back for details on Tuesday’s bike ride. Thanks ahead for sending your prayers!